Sunday 5 September 2010

Sinabang (Simeulue)

It was good to have wind for a change, 17 knots NE, and give the old motor a rest. The approach to Sinabang which sits in a large sheltered bay on the east coast of Semeulue was interesting. I did not have paper charts for the island Simeulue. It did not instil a great deal of confidence seeing a small ship aground on an island near the entrance to the bay. I motored as close as I could to a Starboard Lateral navigation marker to mark and get an idea of the error between actual physical points and the C-Map charts. Actual marks were approximately 66 degrees magnetic (ENE) and 0.3 nautical miles from the mark shown on C-Map. I very gingerly navigating through the islands and rocks, without hitting anything, headed for the town of Sinabang. “Glayva” had, probably wisely, stayed in Labuhanbajau.

First, I had to find somewhere to anchor, without the benefit of having friendly yachties to advise me. I ended up anchoring in 8 metres of water near a large power vessel also at anchor. Next I had to find a place to park the dingy so I could walk to the town. After a lap of the water front I chose a, respectable looking, jetty where fuel was sold. With much gesticulating I managed to ask if I could leave my dingy on their jetty. For a charge of RP5,000 or around AU$0.50 per day I could come and go as I pleased knowing the dingy would be safe. Before I could do any shopping I needed to change some money. It was Saturday, there where two banks, at least at is all I found, and they were closed and the ATM did not take my VISA card. Well at least the town had an ATM. I unsuccessfully prowled the streets trying to find anyone who could speak English. I eventually approached a shop owner selling mobile phones, asked if he wanted to change American dollars – success eventually. Armed with Indonesian Rupiah I went shopping and had a hair cut.


Sinabang is part of Aceh province and is predominantly Moslem. The chanting/wailing coming from the mosques must be an acquired taste. To me it sounded like a good laxative was required to alleviate the apparent pain that these people seemed to be enduring. Not very PC, but hey, you should have heard some of the karaoke wailing! Oh and it is Ramadan, as well, where followers fast during the day. The normal food stalls were not open.
Sinabang was an interesting town, more like it should have come out of a Hollywood wild west town without the bars - no alcohol.