Friday 13 September 2013

Tobago September

Store Bay Sunset
September is the hottest, wettest and most humid month in Tobago and the Caribbean. There tends to be less wind and a increased probability of hurricanes. There was still over two months to wait until the end of the official hurricane season.

Boycotting Bago's beach bar. After returning  from a sail to Charlotteville in the north I met up with a mate, Olli on "Fagul Blu". I had met Olli in Cape Town and along the track; Namibia, St Helena and Brazil.  Anyway, Olli is a good sort and we had a few stories to tell so off the Bago's we went. After a few Caribs Shirley, the licensee, wondered over for a chat. The place was not exactly overflowing with customers, I might add. Shirley asked Olli and I for our contact details; facebook, email etc. I scribbled an email address, which probably won't work. I mean why do I want to get spammed about promos unless it is free beer, which is unlikely. Shortly after this Shirley turns around to me and says she wants to get rid of all the yachts from the anchorage because of the apparent discharge of effluent into the water - a euphemism for what was actually said. As you can imagine I was a little taken aback. Fortunately, on this occasion anyway, I engaged the brain, despite being a tad inebriated, before I said anything. One moment she is trying to promote the place the next she is pissing off the customers! Odd, very odd. The next day I mentioned this to John of Store Bay Marine Services, he laughed having been basically squeezed out of his premises near Bago's with a 35% rent increase by the same licensee. A couple of points to bear in mind;
- there is no functional sewage processing on Tobago,
- effluent from Bago's goes into a septic, which ends up in the sea,
- there are no toilet facilities for people on the beach or vendors nearby.
I have never seen more than 20 yachts in the anchorage at any one time, some of the yachts are unoccupied and many have sewage processing systems.
The licensee should seriously consider a change in occupation or refrain from voicing her opinions to her customers.  

Fortunately the beer is just as good and cheaper just up the road.  I could go on and have a rant about Windows H8 that was on a new computer I recently acquired, however I will spare you that diatribe.



Languishing in Store Bay and still boycotting Bagos Bar. I kept myself occupied fixing things on the boat, socialising with friends onshore, replacing Windows 8 with Linux Mint and learning how to use Linux. Getting rid of Windows H8 was cathartic.


I spoke to John and Katy about cooking a roast lamb in the cobb. I also mentioned pizza. Katy suggested I cook Flat Lamb Pie a Syrian dish (Lahm bi'Ajeen). Getting a leg of lamb/mutton was expensive so I went with the flat lamb pie. As I don't have much to write about this month I'll include the recipe . This is my variation of Flat Lamb Pie. I prepared the dough and filling beforehand on the boat then lugged the cobb bbq and prepared food ashore.

Ingredients:
I used the Focaccia/pizza recipe from the Cobb recipe book as the base.  

Lamb Filling:
1 tablespoon oil
500 g minced/ground lamb
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon dry rosemary (I soaked this in vinegar overnight)
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 can chopped, tomatoes.
Mint to taste
Salt
lemon juice

Serve with  lemon wedges and/or yoghurt

Method:
1. Make up the dough for the base and let it rise.

2. Heat oil in a frying pan, add ground lamb and stir over medium high heat until colour changes and meat is crumbly. Add onion and cook for 10 minutes, stirring often, until onion is soft.

3. Add rosemary, mint, spices, salt to taste and pepper, fry 1 minute longer, then add tomatoes. Cover and cook on low heat until tomato softens - about 10 minutes.

4. Stir in lemon juice. Remove from heat and cool. Mixture should be firm, but not liquid.

5. Punch down dough if used. Roll out dough or pastry on a lightly floured board until 3mm thick - about the size of the Cobb pan. Alternatively take balls of dough the size of an egg and press each into a round with hand.

6. Spray/brush oil on pan. Spread the dough on the pan. Place a tablespoon of filling onto a quarter of the dough and another tablespoon on the other quarter. Fold the remaining half of the dough over the filling - giving two pies - like a calzone. Spread another rolled dough and fill so you have two folded pizza like pies in the cobb.

7. Bake pies for 15-20 minutes with the cobb lid on.  Cut the half pies giving 4 pies at a time. Serve hot or warm, squeeze lemon wedges  onto pies, or yoghurt may be served with them .



The Flat Lamb Pies turned out well and the 6 of us had a good evening with many local Carib beers. No one had seen the cobb bbq before and were impressed.
 

Sunday 1 September 2013

Tobago August

Friend Kate from the USA arrived in mid August after some angst getting flights from Trinidad. We visited Bago's - obligatory. I visited Immigration and Customs in Scarborough to check out with plans to sail up the coast to visit Castara and Charlotteville again.

We set sail from Store Bay and had a very pleasant sail up the coast in 10 to 15 knot easterly breeze. Castara is a spectacularly beautiful bay and reasonably well protected from east to north east swells. Several days were spent languishing in Castara bay. Kate stayed at the Boat View guest house with a spectacular view of the bay. The view cost around US$60 a night and comes with a free room. The bed, bathroom and kitchen were clean and adequate - great value.


Castara Boatview - $60/night with free room
On the weekend there were preparations for a Fisherman's Festival on the beach at Castara. The noise of the socca music was going to be unbearably loud out on the water. Ian and Jackie on Blackthorn Lady and Sadiqi headed to Parlatuvier just up the coast to escape the noise. Parlatuvier was another small pretty bay, fairly crowded with fishing boats. Because the bay was small I used a kedge anchor, for the first time, to hold the boat from swinging and hitting other boats. This is quite a prolonged process laying the forward anchor (Roxy) then taking the second anchor (the kedge) in the dingy and laying it close to shore. The boat does not lie into the wind. I snorkelled  on the anchors to check  that all was well and dug in. We went ashore in the late afternoon and visited the waterfalls within walking distance from the beach.
Parlatuvier Bay
Parlatuvier Waterfalls

The following day I noticed heavy rain falling in the hills where Kate was staying at Xanadu lodge with friend Trixie. I was preparing to haul anchor and head back to the more sheltered Castara. I heard a rushing noise, looked toward the beach and saw brown water and debris cascading into the bay - it was quite a sight. I thought that the torrent may push the boats about. The water in the bay turned chocolate brown with logs and all sorts of detritus floating in it. I sailed out of the bay not wanting to push muddy water through the engine cooling system or possibly foul the propeller. Parlatuvier was not the best anchorage as the anchor, even Roxy, would hold for awhile and then release. I am guessing this was due to the silt from the river. Another lesson hopefully learned when anchoring near a river mouth. Blackthorn Lady left after Sadiqi waiting for the brown flood  to subside. Unfortunately, they lost their kedge anchor as it was covered by tons of silt at the river mouth. 


Flooding river near Parlatuvier
Parlatuvier  Bay - flooding river mouth
I had been in Tobago for nearly three months. I hired a car with Ian and Jackie to drive to Scarborough to see Immigration to make an appointment to renew my visa. There is still three months of the "official" Hurricane season left. I was not going to venture further north until the Hurricane season was over. Tobago was not bad place to hide from Hurricanes.