Wednesday 26 June 2013

Kite Surfing

I had had a few kite surfing lessons near Cabedelo in Brazil - the wind was onshore, the shore break was interesting and language was a challenge. I had got to the stage of being dragged through the water by the kite with the instructor trying to hold onto my harness. The one important thing I had not been taught was about the kite itself and how to release it if I really really needed to.
I walked to Pigeon Point Heritage Park to see the guys at Radical Sports the local windsurfing and kite surfing school. Easy walking distance from where the boat was anchored. Anyway, after chatting with Brett, the owner of the school, I bit the bullet and signed up. I think this proved a much safer learning environment. The breeze is usually side onshore and not much in the way of waves. The only hazard appears to be the conch shells in the weed patches off the beach, which wreak havoc on the feet.

http://www.radicalsportstobago.com/
https://vimeo.com/user5005128/channels

This is not a cheap sport to learn - the lessons are definitely worth it. In the first six hours of lessons, taken over several days, one learns; how to setup and control the kite, body dragging using the kite to retrieve the board or get to shore, emergency drill for getting to shore if the lines get tangled of loss of board etc. Toward the end of the 6th hour I was ready to learn how to water start. After a few failed attempts and near drowning I managed to skip over the water for a few metres. 


I also had a brief wakeup call as to just how dangerous kite surfing can be. While water starting a gust hit the kite launching me into the air and subsequently slamming me into the water, the kite dived vertically into the shore break with a hell of a bang. I think I had a pretty perplexed look on my face as Dwight the instructor asked me it I was alright. I was surprised at how quickly everything had happened. I confess that this incident did take the gloss of the sport and I seriously considered my mortality.

I was not able to get back on to the horse - so to speak as the was insufficient wind to kite surf. I still had several hours of lessons to go. I visited Pigeon Point on the odd occasion to chat with Brett and Dwight.
 

Saturday 8 June 2013

Tobago


wikipedia Trinidad and Tobago

noonsite Trinidad and Tobago

Currency: Trinidad Tobago TT Dollar   US$1 = TT$6

Caribbean Weather

After dropping the anchor and inflating the dingy I rowed over to one of the other yachts and met Harry on "Leonotis". Harry kindly provided information on ATM, taxi's, phone sim cards and the check in procedure. Respectfully dressed in long pants and collared shirt I headed to Scarborough to see Immigration and Customs. An official taxi charges around TT$40 for the trip. By standing on the side of the road and sticking out one's finger an unofficial taxi will pick one up and charge TT$6. The clearing in was relatively effortless. I was granted a visa for 3 months. A warning on the Customs checkin process, say the boat arrived, during office working hours, between 0800 and 1600, otherwise one will be charged overtime regardless of the time one actually enters the Customs office. Another flaming Customs rort! And should the customs officer feel so inclined a boarding fee may also be charged without actually boarding the boat.

I returned to the boat, changed out of my respectful attire and put on standard grotty yachtie attire - tee-shirt and shorts. I retuned to the beach and headed to Bago's Beach Bar with Harry for a Carib beer. That night I had a very good sleep with Sadiqi gently rolling at anchor.

Tobago - Store Bay
I try to abstain from making any serious decisions on the second day after arriving from a long passage. This is because I am usually very tired after a good long sleep and have been know to make some really dumb decisions. Somehow, I survived my first weekend in the Caribbean. This was despite suffering a CRAFT episode at Bago's Beach Bar on Saturday night. I awoke Sunday morning back on Sadiqi, still inebriated, wondering how I had got back onboard. Fortunately, I had gone ashore in Harry's dingy and he had somehow got me back to Sadiqi. I also discovered I had lost my wallet. In the evening I returned to the scene of the crime and was presented with my wallet with cash and contents - I was amazed and very grateful. It would appear we live, I'm not so sure about the learning bit.

Some of local characters seem so laid back and chilled out that it is difficult to believe they are standing (vertical). There appears to be an abundance of substances available on the island to help one become even more relaxed and chilled. 

Pigeon Point Heritage Park
Mac and the tribe arrived on the beautiful schooner "Moonbeem", Mac had visited Forteleza, Brazil, French Guiana, Suriname and Guyana. He said that Guyana was the best place to visit. More beer was consumed at Bago's in the telling of all sorts of stories.

Lindsay on "Avolera", Australian registered,  arrived in Store Bay, Tobago. I had been swapping emails and chatting with Lindsay on HF radio. Lindsay spent 66 days sailing from Port Elizabeth to French Guiana - an epic voyage. I had met Lindsay in Richards Bay. I introduced Lindsay to Bagos and he thought he was in heaven. Actually, his fridge had packed up on the boat and he had not had a cold beer in a long time.  

Bago's Beach Bar
Unfortunately, this paradise is infested with dreaded sand flies/fleas! Using insect repellents works to a point. The most effective deterrent is not to scratch if one feels an itch - any itch. Once you scratch - that's it - you'll be scratching for week and will break the skin. 

Store Bay, Tobago
When I lugged my jerry cans up the road to the local fuel station I did a double take at the prices - diesel was around 25 cents a litre and petrol around 45 cents a litre. Trinidad and Tobago are an oil and gas producing territory. Fortunately, I use very little fuel so was able to fill my 20 litre jerry can. Had I turned up to fill 10 jerry cans I would have been questioned. Apparently, getting fuel from the dock in Chagaramus, Trinidad you pay twenty first century (non subsidised) fuel prices.

July 8 - Tropical storm Chantal put in an appearance in the Caribbean and fortunately was not heading for Tobago. One tends to take a very keen interest in tropical storms and hurricanes at this time of the year. In fact it will dominate any yachtie conversation while impending weather is about. I use internet site:
http://weather.org/stormwatch.htm
to check on the progress of imminent storms. 

Storm clouds over Tobago




 




Friday 7 June 2013

Brazil to Tobago

25-05-13 Saturday
0520 Sadiqi departed Jacare, Cabedelo, Brazil.
Engine: 1241.6 Hrs. Log 1000.2 NM.
Wind - very little land breeze from the west.

Sadiqi motored out of Rio Paraiba along with the flotsam and jetsam on the flooding spring tide. It was rough going out through the channel with wind against tide and short choppy seas.

0810 - 7.5 miles out from Jacare and into the SE trade winds at 10 to 12 kts.

Noon
Time: 12.00L UTC -3.
Lat: 06 37.17 S, Lon: 034 37.90 W.
COG: 35 Deg M, SOG 5.2 knots.
Winds: 10 to 15 Kts SE. Swell 2 meters.
Engine: 1244.7 Hrs.
Distance covered since leaving Jacare 29 miles.

1700 Beer o clock - nice sailing.
Wind 10 - 15 knots SE.
Sailing 25 miles off the coast around the 1,000 metre depth contour.
COG 9 Deg M, SOG 5 knots.
Lots of ships sailing north and south.

26-05-13 – Sunday

Fast sailing overnight with the north setting current and winds 10 - 15 Knots SE on the beam.

0730  Winds 10 - 15 Knots SE.
Turning the corner and bearing off the wind.
Poled out the jib.
COG 325 Deg M, SOG 5.5 Knots.

Noon
Time: 12.00L UTC -3.
Lat: 04 34.36 S, Lon: 035 15.66 W.
COG: 330 Deg M, SOG 6 knots.
Winds: 14 - 18 Kts SE. Swell 2 meters.
Engine: 1244.7 Hrs
Distance covered since noon 134 miles.
It was a sunny day and great sailing.

1700 Beer o clock. Rolling along with main and poled out jib.
2 to 3 knots of current. SOG 7 knots.

27-05-13 – Monday

Another fast sail overnight with a west setting current and winds 12 - 18 Knots SE.
Grey skies in the morning. Started the engine to charge the batteries.

Noon
Time: 12.00L UTC -3.
Lat: 02 51.57 S, Lon: 037 41.67 W.
COG: 310 Deg M, SOG 7 knots.
Winds: 14 - 18 Kts SE. Swell 2 to 3 meters.
Engine: 1246.3 Hrs
Distance covered since noon 178.3 miles.
Fast downwind sailing.

1530 Wind 15 to 20 knots SE.
Put one reef in the main.
COG 325 Deg M, SOG 7 knots.


Chasing the sunset
28-05-13 – Tuesday

Another fast sail overnight with the strong Guiana current and winds from behind at 12 - 18 Knots SE. Bright sunny day with large cumulus clouds about. Started the engine to charge the batteries.

Noon
Time: 12.00L UTC -3.
Lat: 01 10.50 S, Lon: 040 41.05 W.
COG: 330 Deg M, SOG 9 knots.
Winds: 15 - 20 Kts SE. Swell 2 to 3 meters.
Engine: 1247.3 Hrs
Distance covered since noon 205.5 miles. (Best distance in 24 hours)
Fast downwind sailing.

29-05-13 – Wednesday

In the early morning the wind eased 10 - 12 knots SE - Doldrums so close to the equator.
COG 315 Deg M, SOG 7 knots.

0616 crossed the equator into the Northern Atlantic.
I started the engine to charge the batteries, turned Sadiqi into the wind and furled the sails. I went for a swim to clean the barnacles off the propeller. Under bare poles Sadiqi was still doing 5 knots in a NE direction. I had a safety line attached and was dragged along behind the boat.

Noon
Time: 12.00L UTC -3.
Lat: 00 22.76 N, Lon: 043 25.57 W.
COG: 327 Deg M, SOG 7 knots.
Winds: 12 - 15 Kts SE. Swell 2 meters.
Engine: 1248.2 Hrs
Distance covered since noon 189.1 miles.
This has to be sailing at its best with almost flat seas and good boat speed.

30-05-13 – Thursday

Overnight the wind dropped below 10 knots from the SE. The sails banged and slatted. I furled the jib and coasted along at 4 knots SOG.
At sunrise there were many large dark cumulus clouds with grey curtains of rain hanging from them. After running the engine to charge the batteries I unfurled and poled out  the jib.

Noon
Time: 12.00L UTC -3.
Lat: 01 43.90 N, Lon: 045 27.30 W.
COG: 330 Deg M, SOG 5 knots.
Winds: 3 - 6 Kts E..
Engine: 1250.6 Hrs
Distance covered since noon 146.3 miles.
Motor sailing to the north of the Amazon river mouth. I furled the jib and motor sailed with a single reefed main to ease the banging and slatting and my nerves.

The wind, what little of it there was, the waves and current seemed to come from all directions making for an uncomfortable and slow journey with the hot noisy motor banging away. And the mainsail banged from side to side. It would appear the very pleasant fast sailing of the previous days was just too good to last. Then again we had just traversed the equator and were probably in the doldrums.

1920 There was wind of a consistent direction; east and strength 10 to 12 knots to be able to turn off the engine. Bliss.
COG 320 Deg M, SOG 5 knots.

2015 Wind 15 to 20 knots ENE.
COG 330 Deg M, SOG 6 knots.

31-05-13 – Friday

Three years since leaving Fremantle Western Australia.

It was slow going over night with light winds and lumpy seas.
It was a clear bright morning with not much in the way of ominous looking cumulus clouds about.

0730 Raised Big Bertha - the asymmetrical spinnaker.
Wind 10 to 12 knots ESE.
COG 330  Deg M, SOG 5 knots. Not the smoothest of sails with 3 to 4 metre lumpy cross swell from the NE.

Noon
Time: 12.00L UTC -3.
Lat: 02 50.30 N, Lon: 046 57.62 W.
COG: 320 Deg M, SOG 4 knots.
Winds: 10 - 12 Kts ESE..
Engine: 1257.9 Hrs
Distance covered since noon 112 miles.
Barely flying the asymmetrical.

1700 Beer o clock was delayed to haul down Big Bertha as a dark squall was approaching from astern. 



01-06-13 - Saturday.

0240 Woke to banging sails, very rough seas and little wind.
I turned on the engine.

0615 Winds 10 - 17 knots NE.
Turned off the engine - the ears were still ringing.
COG 325 Deg M, SOG 5 knots.
Localised storm cells causing wind.

0620 There was not much wind from the NE.
Turned on the engine to remove the mainsail and restitch, by hand, some seams that had parted.

Noon
Time: 12.00L UTC -3.
Lat: 04 04.94 N, Lon: 048 17.54 W.
COG: 330 Deg M, SOG 4 knots.
Winds: not much raining..
Engine: 1265.7 Hrs
Distance covered since noon 110 miles.
Barely flying the asymmetrical.
Motoring along. Generally it was a grey day and on more than occasion very wet.

1600 Wind 10 to 12 knots NE.
Turned off the engine- bliss

1800 stopped the engine and drifted.
Cooked spaghetti bolognaise.
I needed a good long sleep - went to bed.

02-06-13 - Sunday.

0300 Wind was less than 5 knots NE. At least the direction is fairly consistent.
Mainsail was banging from side to side. It was a nasty sloppy sail banging sea.
Sadiqi had drifted 15 miles in 9 hours with just the reefed mainsail.
I put my principles aside and started the engine.

0600 Winds were less than 8 knots NE.
Motor sailing. Transferred 20 litres of diesel into the fuel tank. Topped up the water tanks with rain water.

0730 stopped the engine to go on the HF radio and chat with Lindsay on "Avolera".

0830 Wind 6 to 8 knots NE.
Hauled up Big Bertha.
COG 320 Deg M, SOG 5 knots.
Nice to be sailing again. I hope the engine will cool down within the decade.

Noon
Time: 12.00L UTC -3.
Lat: 05 02.80 N, Lon: 049 28.69 W.
COG: 325 Deg M, SOG 6 knots.
Winds: 8 - 12 Kts NE.
Engine: 1273.3 Hrs
Distance covered since noon 91 miles.
Good sailing with Big Bertha - no banging engines or sails - silence is bliss.

1600 Hauled down Big Bertha due to the approach of a big black squall. Then it persisted with rain - no wind and strange currents and eddies.

1930 The rain squalls passed with winds reaching 20 knots from all directions, then there was no wind and the sails banged and slatted in the residual slop from the squalls.

2030 Started the engine - stuff the principles I could not stand the noise of the banging mainsail. The whole boat would shudder as the sail banged from side to side.

03-06-13 Monday.

Just after midnight I stopped the engine.
Wind 5 to 10 knots NNE.
There was just enough wind to fill the sails. The sea state had moderated.

At sunrise I was dodging an oil rig and support ships in French Guiana waters near the border with Brazil. I had seen the loom of the rig from many miles away and wondered what it was as nothing was marked on the charts.

0730 Wind 15 to 20 knots NE.
COG 320 Deg M, SOG 7 knots.
Rain squalls and very wet.
Sadiqi was back in the strong Guiana current near the continental shelf.

Noon
Time: 12.00L UTC -3.
Lat: 05 59.34 N, Lon: 051 24.27 W.
COG: 320 Deg M, SOG 7.5 knots.
Winds: 12 - 15 Kts NE.
Engine: 1277.3 Hrs
Distance covered since noon 128 miles.

1615 Wind 5 to10 knots NE.
Hauled up Big Bertha - flying along.
COG 320 Deg M, SOG 7.5 knots.

1730 Hauled down Big Bertha just before the afternoon rain squalls came through. 

Afternoon showers
04-06-13 Tuesday.

The wind was pretty steady over night at 12 to 18 knots NE.
A fast sail between the continental shelf and 1,000 metre depth contour.
Speed over ground SOG was mostly around 8 knots. This was not the driest of sailing conditions with the deck being almost constantly wet.

0645 Wind 10 to 15 knots NE.
COG 320 Deg M, SOG 9 knots.
It was a grey soggy morning.
Sadiqi entered the territorial waters of Suriname.

Noon
Time: 12.00L UTC -3.
Lat: 07 32.30 N, Lon: 053 49.86 W.
COG: 318 Deg M, SOG 7.5 knots.
Winds: 14 - 16 Kts NE.
Engine: 1278.6 Hrs
Distance covered since noon 172 miles.

1700 Beer o clock
Wind 14 to 18 knots NE. Swell 3 to 4 metres from the NNE
COG 318 Deg M, SOG 8 knots.
Partially furled mainsail and jib.

05-06-13 Wednesday.

Another fast, wet and boisterous night sail.
Green water engulfed Sadiqi's topsides on more than the odd occasion.
Sadiqi was called on VHF radio in the early morning to be advised that a ship nearby was towing a 6 kilometre cable.

Noon
Time: 12.00L UTC -3.
Lat: 09 14.51 N, Lon: 056 43.78 W.
COG: 320 Deg M, SOG 8 knots.
Winds: 14 - 18 Kts ENE.
Engine: 1279.1 Hrs
Distance covered since noon 200 miles.

1400 Changed Time zone to UTC -4

Late afternoon there was less current, the wind eased swinging toward the east. The SOG dropped to around 6 knots, the motion of the boat became easier and drier.

06-06-13 Thursday.

It was a fairly easy and slower night with Sadiqi surfing down the 2 to 4 metre swell instead of going through it. The morning was grey with a lot of blackness and wetness toward Venezuela to the south. During the nights Sadiqi has managed to repel sustained attacks by squadrons of flying fish. This was evidenced in the morning by the body count on the deck  and the fishy stench.

Mid morning with the passing of the rain squalls the wind dropped and the sails started banging again. This only last half an hour before the consistent 12 to 16 knot north easterly trade wind returned

Noon
Time: 12.00L UTC -4.
Lat: 10 22.72 N, Lon: 059 09.63 W.
COG: 310 Deg M, SOG 5.5 knots.
Winds: 14 - 16 Kts ENE.
Engine: 1279.9 Hrs
Distance covered since noon 159.2 miles. (25 hours)
Sadiqi was 110 miles from her planned destination of Tobago. The skipper was hoping to make landfall around midday to clear in before overtime charges were imposed.

In the evening there were a quite a few ships passing and some small fishing boats around. On approaching the continental shelf the seas were quite turbulent.

07-06-13 Friday

Sadiqi was still making good speed. To slow down I fully furled the headsail and partially furled the mainsail. I wanted to make landfall in daylight.
Wind 12 to 15 knots NE
COG 300 Deg M, SOG 4 knots.

0711 I called Tobago Port Control and asked for permission to anchor at Store Bay which was granted. Yachts are supposed to arrive in either Charlottesville or Scarborough to clear in.

0840 Arrived Store Bay, Tobago.
Engine 1282.3 Hours.
Log 1054.3 Miles.

Sadiqi sailed just under 2,000 miles in 13 days using 40 litres of fuel.