Best Tuk Tuk driver Anura phone 077 624 0619. Marlin can be very helpful and knows a great deal of information. Mike, the only guy in Galle who can fill your gas/propane tanks.
The clearing out bureaucracy seemed quite effortless. Casson from Windsor Reef Navigation doing a good job.
29 March 11.30 departed Galle. Weather fine with Southerly wind 5 to 10 knots. It would be a day of dodging the shipping traffic.There were a lot of ships.
Very nice to be out of the harbour and sailing again. Sadiqi's bottom is fairly foul. She is still slipping through the water close reach, doing 4 knots in 10 to 12 knots of wind from the south.
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| Glassy seas |
Noon 30-03-12 - Friday
Time: 12.00L UTC+5.5
Lat: 05 48.00N
Lon: 078 55.79E
Log: 5324.4 Nm
Bearing: 243 Deg M
Winds: 10 to 15 Kts WSW
79 miles sailed and motored since leaving Galle harbour. Spent most of the night avoiding ships heading to and from the Red Sea along the Sri Lankan coast. There were a lot of ships.
By mid morning Sadiqi was beating south west – good sailing. Great to have this much wind from a consistent direction at this latitude.
Noon 31-03-12 - Saturday
Time: 12.00L UTC+5.5
Lat: 05 48.00N
Lon: 078 55.79E
Log: 5324.4 Nm
Bearing: 251 Deg M
Winds: 10 to 15 Kts SW
By mid Friday afternoon the winds had reached 18 knots from the west. I put one reef in the main. This led to a more comfortable ride. Good consistent winds, all be it right on the nose, around Latitude 5 degrees.
I saw scores of dolphins leaping out of the water and generally playing. It even appeared that some of them had been trained as about 12 of them leaped out of the water in unison. It was truly an amazing display.
Dodging fishing boats at night. No sea birds around which seems normal near the equator – guess too damn hot. 105 nautical miles sailed in the last 24 hours.
Noon 01-04-12 - Sunday
Time: 12.00L UTC+5.5
Lat: 04 09.10N
Lon: 076 24.08E
Log: 5361.1 Nm
Bearing: 270 Deg M
Winds: 2 to 5 Kts SW - unconvincingly
We had an uneventful night, did not see any ships or fishing boats and slept well.
The winds died off after sun rise becoming almost glassy. Fortunately the choppy wind waves settled as well. I hopped over the side for a swim in the deep very blue water. First of all I had tied a line and was dragged it behind Sadiqi, as I did not furl the sails, just in case she sailed off. Sadiqi was perhaps doing half a knot. I scraped off the few barnacles that I could see, gave the rudder a good inspection for damage in the crystal clear water, none evident.
I also notice that Sadiqi had acquired, or fishnapped from Galle harbour, a few companions. There were some small fish swimming around the hull while I was swimming. I had noticed these fish while sailing the day before. I'm guessing they tagged along for the ride and now were using the boat as shelter from the bigger fish around.
I did motor west for a few hours when there was no wind to make for a better angle in what seems to be a fairly consistent light south westerly wind.
The last 24 hours up to midday 76 nautical miles sailed.
Noon 02-04-12 - Monday
Time: 12.00L UTC+5.5
Lat: 03 29.21 N
Lon: 075 36.75 E
Log: 5380.9 Nm
Bearing: 280 Deg M
Winds: 5 to 10 Kts SW
The last 24 hours up to midday. 62 miles sailed. By evening the winds had increased to between 5 and 8 knots from the west. I was in no hurry and enjoying the sail. Sadiqi quietly slipped though the water doing 2 to 3 knots - well sometimes. There must have been a reasonable current heading in the same direction that we were going.
At night with a half moon it was so quiet I was almost inclined to tippy toe around the boat. If there had been anyone to converse with, other than the bears, I think I would have whispered. Other than the odd creak from Sadiqi, a few squeaks from Smithy's control lines and the trickling of water past the hull it was amazingly silent.
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| More glassy seas |
Noon 03-04-12 - Tuesday
Time: 12.00L UTC+5.5
Lat: 03 00.08 N
Lon: 074 54.50 E
Log: 5412.8 Nm
Bearing: 203 Deg M
Winds: 2 to 5 Kts SW sometimes
We motored west again after midday to charge batteries and try to improve the wind angle for the sail at night. Getting nearer and nearer the equator the winds still predominantly from the south west decreased in strength. The mainsail was still reefed as every now and again the boat would rock and roll and the sails banging and slatting. The boat seemed to move better in the lighter winds with main-sail reefed.
Around 2200 hours the winds picked up to 15 knots and I saw lightening and heard thunder in the distance. The wind was short lived, then there was none and the residue wave chop. I furled the sails and drifted getting some sleep. It would appear we drifted north. At 0400 hours I was trying to coax the boat south with less than 5 knots of wind. I did not succeed. I could not get the boat to point south due, I'm guessing due to current. Both Smithy the windpilot and Ken the autopilot were liberally cursed several times, even though it was not their fault. In desperation I started the motor and ploughed southwards for several hours. Hoping in the morning I could get my head around why I could not get the boat to steer southwards in light airs.
I threw some food scraps out in the morning and noticed Sadiqi's fishy friends dart out from under the boat. Just before 0800 and the radio sched with "Tagish" and "Cats Paw" I threw some very mouldy, furry bread over the side to feed the fish. I turned off the engine to use the HF radio and afterwards tried to coax the boat southward under sails in very little wind again. It was with some chagrin that I noticed bits of mouldy bread drifting past the boat again. I was not sure which was going faster, the bread going north or Sadiqi heading south.
Total distance travelled in the 24 hours 51 nautical miles.
Noon 04-04-12 - Wednesday
Time: 12.00L UTC+5.5
Lat: 02 32.98 N
Lon: 074 31.41 E
Log: 5436.3 Nm
Bearing: 200 Deg M
Winds: 2 to 5 Kts SW – negligible.
In the afternoon I managed to sail, if one can call it that, in 5 to 7 knots of wind. I set the high wind alarm to 7 knots on the Tack Tick Instruments. We drifted south at zero to 3 knots with the wind not getting much above 7 knots.
Wednesday night was similar to Tuesday night with 15 knot breezes from the south west for a short time then nothing from anywhere. The biggest impact has been the change in direction of the almost negligible tidal current. Sadiqi can be quite happily drifting along at up to 2 knots in a 5 to 7 knot breeze, when all of a sudden the mast paints erratic circles in the sky, the sails start slatting and banging in the chop.
I ran the engine again for several hours in the early morning to get some southing.
Went I went over the side for a swim and a wash I noticed Sadiqi's fishy friends had dwindled somewhat. There appeared to be only two left out of the dozen or so I thought I saw. Maybe the dolphins who have been quite frequent visitors have had something to do with that. Then again I think I would be pretty damn tired if I had swum 400 miles.
A very unimpressive 35.6 nautical miles covered in the last 24 hours.
Noon 05-04-12 – Thursday
Time: 12.00L UTC+5.5
Lat: 01 32.18 N
Lon: 073 56.37 E
Log: 5484.2 Nm
Bearing: 203 Deg M
Winds: 2 to 5 Kts SE
By mid afternoon there was no wind the sails were all furled and the motor running. It was also damn hot at 35 degrees Celsius. This is the Doldrums after all. We have yet to go through the Inter Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ).
Around 2200 hours I noticed the wind had picked up from the east. I hoisted the sails and thankfully shut down the engine. The winds soon picked up to 15 knots and Sadiqi was slipping through the water at 5 plus knots – very pleasant sailing. It was coming up to a full moon. Sadiqi was able to move along under sails until around 0500 hours, then the motor was started again. The sails are getting a fair thrashing from the boat rocking and rolling in the slop with little wind.
The wind, what little of it there is, from the south east has steadily dropped all morning. Two of Sadiqi's fishy friends were still swimming about the hull when I went for a swim and a wash in the morning.
Sadiqi was abreast of One and Half Degree Channel have done 70 nautical miles in the last 24 hours. The engine was run for 10 hours hence the distance covered.
Noon 06-04-12 – Friday
Time: 12.00L UTC+5.5
Lat: 00 23.70 N
Lon: 073 34.43 E
Log: 5518.4 Nm
Bearing: 203 Deg M
Winds: 2 to 5 Kts S
The winds were very capricious in the afternoon. The sails were hoisted and dropped several times. I even tried Big Bertha. It hung like wet laundry. Eventually at 1500 hours the engine was started and we motored south.
With the motor running and doing 4 knots through the water I attempted to try and catch dinner. Thankfully I don't rely on my fish catching abilities to survive.
With winds less than 4 knots from the south, on an oily smooth sea and nearly a full moon Sadiqi motored south through the night.
At around sunrise 0600 hours we were close to South Huvadhoo Atoll, Maldives, near Maarehaa Island. A very pretty sight after 8 days since leaving Sri Lanka. The water depth changes from around 2,000 metres to zero within a very short distance from the islands..
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| The Maldives |
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In the very calm conditions, winds 5 knots from the south, sails up and drifting at 2 knots I filled the diesel tank (35 Litres) and changed the engine oil and fuel filter.
Sadiqi's fishy friends were still there when I went for a swim in the morning. However, there were now three. I could recognise one by the scar it had near the tail fin. The new one, same variety, was smaller. I would not blame them if they jumped ship here at this Atoll. If they did in fact come from Sri Lanka then the Maldives would have to be a much better place to live. Refugees maybe?
Distance covered in the last 24 hours 71.4 Nautical Miles – mostly under motor.
Noon 07-04-12 – Saturday
Time: 12.00L UTC+5.5
Lat: 00 17.20 N
Lon: 073 26.71 E
Log: 5518.4 Nm
Bearing: 203 Deg M
Winds: 2 to 5 Kts SW
Friday afternoon I decided to drop anchor somewhere in South Huvadhoo Atoll. It looked a good and pretty place to kill some time. I just hope the authorities wouldn't notice. Instead of trying to hide in a secluded island I thought I'd pick a populated island and look like I belonged. Well this proved a moot point and Sadiqi was on the only yacht around.
I entered the Atoll between Gan and Mariyamkoyyerataa islands. I passed a surf charter boat on the way in, waved hello. They shouted asking where was I from? I said Perth and unfurled the aussie flag, which had go wrapped up. That got a cheer. I could tell by the accent some of the people were from Australia.
The next trick was to find a safe and fairly shallow spot to anchor. Most anchorages in the Maldives are deep 30 to 50 metres being the norm. Also, need to find sandy spot so as not to destroy or get tangled up with the coral bommies.
I confess it was good to stop for awhile. It was hot, being this close to the Equator so I leaped over the side for a swim. Would you believe it Sadiqi's fishy friends were still there, well two of them anyway.
I have also seen some of the biggest flying foxes I have ever seen flying around during the day. They'd have to be as big as a small cat.
I did some snorkelling on the reef near by and was pretty impressed with the coral there. It would appear the locals don't use dynamite for their fishing here.
On Saturday I watched and waved to the locals as the rowed and sailed their lateen rig boats to the island I was anchored near. They were off to tend their vegetable gardens. The locals pretty much left me alone so I left them alone.
Noon 08-04-12 – Sunday
Time: 12.00L UTC+5.5
Lat: 00 08.58 N
Lon: 073 26.94 E
Log: 5537.7 Nm
Bearing: 196 Deg M
Winds: 2 to 5 Kts NW
Sunday Morning was a grey overcast day with some dark storm cells around. I had planned on staying another day. The wind picked up from the North West making for a lee shore, combined with the spring tides and the wind waves I felt Sadiqi's keel touch the sandy bottom. It was time to leave and head to deep water if any storms came through. Given that I was not supposed to be there I could not really ask for help if I needed it. It would take a lot of explaining.
The wind picked up as I headed through the gap between the islands and it started to drizzle. On the upside I was hoping the catch water to top up the tanks.
Sunday 08-04-12 at 1536 hours we crossed the line and I cracked a beer to celebrate. Sadiqi galloped into the southern hemisphere like a three legged horse doing 4.5 knots in the 20 to 25 knot south west winds.
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| Crossing the line |
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| Crossing the line |
It was slow going and a very long night battling against tidal currents, strong winds and torrential rain. I don't recall these sort of events being mentioned in the brochure when I signed up for this trip. Oh well it was character building. The thing that exasperated me the most was the currents. Sadiqi would be quite happily sailing along with Smithy at the helm in a nice, all be it wet, 10 to 15 knots and suddenly it seemed Smithy spat the dummy and lost interested in steering the boat. Even Ken the auto pilot could not cope with the current. Before long he would be groaning having reached the stops trying to steer a course.
I was totally perplexed at one point when Sadiqi kept on heading to an island called Foammulah. The compass (heading) was pointing to 220 degrees and the GPS Course Over Ground (GOG) said we were heading 160 degrees. The wind was from the west and any angle I tried to steer on that tack still left us heading to the damn island. I tacked heading in almost the same direction I had come from and saw that the GPS Speed Over Ground (SOG) was zero but the speed through the water was 3 to 4 knots. And we were probably still heading toward that bloody island! In shear frustration I started the engine and slowly, against the current, headed petty much due west to get away from Foammulah island.
This was a distance of around 60 miles. It has to have been one of the longest 60 miles I have ever done taking nearly 30 hours. Within 10 miles of the approach to Addu Atoll the heavens threatened to drown us again in rain. At one point the water turned almost white with pelting of the large droplets hitting the surface of the water. I furled all the sails and drifted south at 2 knots under bear poles. I did not want to go through a passage in the reef in a total white out. I'd had more than enough excitement for the last 24 hours thanks.
We arrived Gan, Addu Atoll, Maldives Monday 9 April at midday. Customs immigration etc arrived in the morning 10 April to do the clear in. The six officials who arrived on the boat were courteous and helpful. If I wanted to stay more than 3 days I was required to appoint an agent.
Gary, Vicki and the kids on "Mojombo" were in the Gan anchorage. They had only arrived 3 days before I did and had opted to stay in Gan for a week. I can't say I blame them – Addu Atoll is beautiful.
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| Gan, Addu Atoll, Maldives |
