The Panama Canal

Panama Canal Wiki

Panama Canal Authority
 

Panama Canal National Geographic

I had gleaned as much information about the canal transit as I could. The most useful information was from Cruisers who I knew had transited the canal in 2014. I had been recommended the services of Tito (+507) 6463 5009, email: titongservice@hotmail.com

The Canal transit (without using an Agent) summary.

1. Registration of intent to transit the canal using Electronic Data Collection System (EDCS). 
2. Organise for lines and fenders to be delivered to the boat. 
3. Book an appointment for the Admeasure to visit the boat. The Admeasurer measures the boat and checks lines and fenders and that the boat is safe to transit the canal.
4. Pay fees in cash at CitiBank in Colon.
5. The transit date is scheduled and hopefully a suitable date set.
6. Prior to the scheduled transit date 4 line handlers turn up. Tito organises all the fenders, lines and linehandlers.
7. On the way to the canal in the flats anchorage (F) pick up the Advisor (Pilot).
8. Transit the canal.
9. Drop line-handlers, lines and fenders off with the taxi boat from Balboa yacht club.

The Canal transit (with an Agent) summary

1. Pay an agent between two and five hundred dollars to do all the administration leg work.

At this point Sadiqi looks at having a total of 6 people on board. From the North or Caribbean side of the canal yacht transits start in the late afternoon.

Canal web cams show tranits at locks:

Miraflores – High Resolution

Gatun High Resolution.

Panama Canal web cams

A note on using Tito's services. 

Tito and his son, Marcus can get extremely busy. He supplies fenders, lines and line handlers to shipping agents. They run on Panama time and will probably not turn up on time. However, they will turn up, they have been doing this service for years. Now that I understand how he operates I would happily use his services again. However, I would only pay his full fee upon successful transit.

Panama (Atlantic)

Panama

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panama

http://www.noonsite.com/Countries/Panama

Currency: US dollar

San Blas to Portobelo

Sunday December 7, 1600 - I pulled up anchor in the now crowded anchorage of Chichime (25 yachts) and headed for Portobelo.

Engine 1483.9 hours

The wind was 8 to 10 knots from the east.

Just on sunset the winds were 10 to 12 knots northerly. Sadiqi was romping along at 5 to 6 knots SOG in lumpy seas, with a favourable current. Nice wind and nice sailing.

By 2200 hours the wind was 10 to 15 knots northerly and a surprisingly favourable current I reduced sail to slow down. Furling the yankee completely and setting an equivalent of 2 reefs in the main sail.

Sadiqi soon encountered the adverse current north of Isla Grande. The seas were nasty, lumpy and uncomfortable with the shortened sail.

Nothing untoward happened over night. There were a significant number of ships on the AIS being so close to the canal.

Monday December 8, 0715, I dropped anchor in Portobelo, Panama.

Engine: 1485.4 hours.

It was Mother's Day work free day in Panama.

Portobelo

Portobelo

I had dropped anchor in very brown, muddy water. My first few days in Portobelo were fairly dry. When it did rain it poured! The anchorage again turned muddy brown with a distinctly earthy smell. 

Muddy brown waters around Sadiqi

 Portobelo is a small sleepy town with a few small Chinese owned supermarkets, a few restaurants and of course the Church of the Nazareno (The Black Christ). Something the town is renowned for.

Church of the Nazareno

http://www.coloncity.com/blackchrist.html

The anchorage became very roly after any wind from the west. It was not untenable but it was very uncomfortable on-board. As far as the skipper can recall Potobelo was one of the most rolly anchorages since Nosy Komba in Madagascar. However, the skippers recollection is questionable given the passing of the years and maybe beer o clock.

The day after I arrived, providence prevailed, I met the infamous Tito at the town dock. I had planned to call him to use his services for transiting the Canal. He quickly put me straight with what to do and what not to do.

Tito (+507) 6463 5009, email: titongservice@hotmail.com

Any cruiser wishing to use Tito's canal transit services is advised to contact him before clearing in. He will advise you on where to go and what to do etc.

I had hoped to transit the canal before Christmas. However, I had placed an order with Marine Warehouse based in Florida for new deep cycle batteries and new dinghy paddles amongst other things.

It has been nearly 2 years, other than being hauled out in Trinidad, since Sadiqi has been in a marina and that was in Cape Town. I had planned on taking delivery of heavy batteries in Shelter Bay Marina. Hence I was rolling around Portobelo anchorage saving beer money on marina fees until closer to the order delivery date.

Mike on Sturdy Logic sailed into Portobelo and fortunately brought good weather and calmer waters with him. I had first met Mike in Cartagena.

Not much arm bending was required to coax Mike up to Captain Jacks for a beer after he arrived.

Portobelo

I worked on the engine; servicing, adjusting valve clearance, realignment and the leaking injector. Thanks to some good information on the internet I braved pulling the injector out. I cleaned the injector and seat, made up and annealed a copper washer and reseated the injector. The leak is vastly improved but is still there very slightly.

Portobelo

On the third attempt at pulling out the injector, lapping the seat and injector and using a newly annealed copper washer the leak was fixed.

I spent a good deal of time at Captain Jacks in Portoblelo – the food is excellent – not cheap but very good. A very eclectic crowd of sailors, travellers and backpackers gather there to take charter boats to the San Blas and Cartagena.

http://captainjackvoyages.com/

I grappled with a timing issue with new batteries supposedly arriving at Shelter Bay on January 7, then getting a transit date for the canal. I emailed Marine Warehouse and the arrival date became blurred with dates like January 13 mentioned. The main time for yachts to transit the canal is around February – mainly due to better weather. The World ARC was also planned to transit the canal. I had tangled with World ARC boats before in Richards Bay and had to leave Zululand Marina to make way for them. I decided to transit the canal as soon as I could and pick up the new batteries in Balboa. It is only about 50 miles from Colon to Balboa.

Monday December 29, at 0810 - I pulled up anchor in Portobelo.

Engine 1489.0 hours

I sent Tito a text to tell him that I should arrive in Shelter Bay shortly after midday.

The Winds were 18 to 20 knots NE.

It was a fast and great sail downwind with main and poled out yankee.

On approaching the break water entrance to the Panama canal I called up “Cristobal Signal Station” of VHF channel 12 to get permission to enter the breakwater. As you may well imagine there were a lot of ships around. I followed a ship into the breakwater, then headed to Shelter Bay Marina. I could have gone and anchored at the Flats for free. Sadiqi had not been in a marina, other than being hauled out in Trinidad in may, since Cape Town – nearly two years ago.

I contacted Shelter Bay Marina on VHF 74 to notifying them of my arrival. I gave Sadiqi's detail and was allocated a berth E37.

I was given assistance and my lines were taken by the efficient and friendly staff.

I pulled into berth E37 at Shelter Bay Marina at 1215.

Engine 1491.2 hours

In the afternoon Tito turned up with his son Marcus with lines and fenders (tires). Tito had contacted the Admeasurer to inspect and measure Sadiqi the following day.

A lot of life is spent waiting. A small percentage, probably less than one percent, is spent sometimes a little too actively doing something. Well, this has been my experience. Patience has never been my virtue. I was keen and anxious to get the canal transit over with.

The mobile internet access at Shelter Bay is woefully slow.

Kuna Yala (San Blas) islands

San Blas islands, locally known as the Kuna Yala, comprise of 365 islands (one for everyday of the year) located along the Caribbean coast of Panama, most of them uninhabited.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Blas_Islands

The villages on the islands of; Nargana and Corazon de Jesus, have left their traditional values. In short I could buy cerveza (beer) for a dollar a can, vino (Clos, Chilean wine) and Ron (Rum). Watching the men and boys paddle, there predominantly traditional canoes, across to the Rio Diablo on the mainland to get water was fascinating. I pondered why they did not make it easier for themselves and get a pipe between the island and the mainland. It would appear there was a pipe, but a thoughtless cruiser destroyed it with their anchor. While watching the frenetic pace of the village life I pondered if the wheel had been discovered, there being no cars, motorcycles or even bicycles in evidence. Then I spotted a wheel barrow carry the fore mentioned beer to the Bordega from the Colombian/Panamanian trading boats that supply the islands. Yes, Internet is available. There is even free WiFi if one is close enough to the router on shore.

Nargana, San Blas

Sadiqi was experiencing engine problems with exhaust gases escaping from around one of the injectors. I was not game to pull the injector out in a remote location in case I broke something and was left without the engine. This would have to wait until I arrived in Colon or Christobal. The problem of the leaking injectors and exhaust smell in the cabin had me flummoxed for quite some time. I mentioned the problem to Lindsay on Avolare in an email, who told me what the problem was. My thanks to Lindsay.

Corazon de Jesus Airport

Friend Kate flew into Corazon de Jesus airport early on Tuesday 25. The airstrip was built by the Americans back in the second world war and looked it. While waiting for the plane to arrive I walked the crumbling airstrip throwing loose stones and rocks off it. There was no paranoid security around. I wondered if she was going to chicken out of getting on a small plane with propellers instead of a jet turbine. I knew she hated flying. The ground crew, which had arrived after I had, shouted to me to get off the strip as the plane approached. The twin engine plane screeched down the airstrip using it's wheel brakes to slow the plane on the short strip. Kate eventually emerged from the small plane with a bemused look, muttering something about thunder and lightening storms and never flying again. Kate had survived the puddle jumper flight from hell. She paid $3.00 arrival tax or airport improvement tax. I gave her a beer as we headed for the dinghy. I felt obliged to join her - it was 0930.

Once Kate had settled on-board we went ashore and wondered around Nargana village, meeting Fredrico, who befriended us. Fredrico speaks passable English, joined us for lunch and regaled many Kuna stories. He was a good source of information and amongst his many skills: is the alleged garbage disposal person and river guide.

After several days anchored in near Nargana I hauled the anchor and headed to the Coco Bandero islands some 5 miles north west. This was a real tropical island treat . There were several yachts anchored when we arrived. Cayos Coco Bandero consists of seven small islands – tall coconut palm trees, white sandy beaches and clear turquoise waters - tropical paradise. We anchored off the island of Olosicuidup. After one night we returned to Nargana for Internet access and provisioning, replenishing beer supplies. We returned to Olosicuidup, Coco Bandero and spent several days languishing on this island paradise. Several Kuna boats came by Sadiqi during the day offering supplies of Beer, wine, coke, diesel, petrol etc.

Coco Bandero, San Blas

Coco Bandero, San Blas

All to soon it was time to head further west leaving Cayos Coco Bandero. The next Cayos was Holandes. We anchored on the eastern end near an island known amongst cruises as Barbecue island. There were 13 other cruising yachts in the swimming pool anchorage near Barbecue island.

Mike on Sturdy Logic turned up in the afternoon and anchored near by. Another excuse to have a beer and socialise. I dragged out the Cobb BBQ from the depths of the cockpit locker and prepared dough for the pizza base. Late afternoon we went ashore to a sandy beach under palm trees with a gentle breeze blowing cooked and ate pizza with a few beers and wine – perfect. The morning after we had pizza it bucketed down with rain – I mean seriously bucketed down. I opened the water filler plugs on the deck and in a short time both tanks were full. I managed to fill two buckets of water to do laundry. During the downpour the wind strength increased a little and changed direction. The anchor alarm sounded as Sadiqi began to drag anchor toward Sturdy Logic. This was not the fault of Roxy the Rocna. I had anchored on a downward slope without sufficient chain in about 10 metres of water. I started the motor to avoid bumping into Sturdy Logic and let Sadiqi drift back until it became shallow enough for the anchor bite again. I just had to keep an eye out for coral. Sturdy Logic and Sadiqi both dragged anchor and eventually hooked onto something more to their liking. We hardly saw the sun rise in the morning or set in the evening for the almost constant cloud cover. Some days it cleared and the solar panels were able to charge the batteries, most of the time though I had to use the Honda generator to charge them.

Toward midday, Wednesday December 3, we departed Cayos Holandes saying goodbye to Mike and headed further west. We headed for Cayos Chichime passing a number of suitable anchorages along the way with a good deal of yachts anchored. Chichime was a fairly small anchorage with about 12 yachts anchored. Several boats were anchored with no one on-board. The Chichime anchorage appears to be secure enough for people to leave their boats and go by water taxi to Porvenier airport. One person I spoke to, from the Canary Islands, had been there for 6 years. There was a small resort with Kuna hut type accommodation on the island. Water taxis bring guests, mainly backpackers from the airport on the island of Porvenir just over 4 miles away. A very enterprising Kuna Mola salesman, Venancio, came by the boat and proceeded to display all his mola works. I ended up purchasing 2 of the vividly coloured Molas. The mola consists of several layers (usually 2 to 7) of different-coloured cloth sewn together to make intricate and traditional pattens.

Kuna - Mola

Chichime, San Blas

Chichime, San Blas

Friday December 5, Kate headed back to the insanity of everyday working life in the states choosing; water taxi boat and road travel over flying and sailing the 60 miles to Portobelo. 

I thought I'd share some shit happens stories. Complacency. I was told three boats were lost recently in the San Blas in as many days. This was about the time that Sadiqi dragged anchor at Cayos Holandes. Yes, the wind had picked a bit. I was told one couple set a GPS waypoint and were sitting in the cockpit, when crunch - straight on a reef. End of boat! Another solo sailor and his dog sailed too close to a reef - crunch end of boat! The dog must have been on watch. I had met the American in a Curacao. I saw his advert in the marina looking for passage to Thailand or the states. The third I did not know about. This is complacency and is my worst fear. A moments inattentiveness and its over. Yes, luck does play a part. But like my old mentor, Captain Ron says: You make your own luck by not being slack.

There is a very good Panama Cruising Guide by Eric Bauhaus. This guy says, unless you have local knowledge, only go into anchorages with coral bommies around at midday! And keep a good look out! The number of yacht that I saw heading to new anchorages late in the afternoon was astonishing. OK, that is enough of a rant about stupidity. I seriously hope I do not succumb to it.

Cartagena to Nargana, San Blas

Thursday November 20 at 0615 Sadiqi motored out past the reefs of the Rosario group of islands – heading south west. The winds were 8 knots from the south west. By 1030 the winds were 8 to10 knots from the SSW. I turned off the engine and we headed slowly – COG 285 degrees M and SOG 3 knots - in roughly the right direction.

Noon 1200 UTC -5 - November 20

Wind 5 to 10 knots SSW

Lat: 10 17.00 N Lon: 076 04.44 W

COG: 290 deg M, SOG: 2.5 knots

Engine: 1447.7 hours

20.5 miles since departing Isla Grande

By 2200 the winds had dropped to 4 knots from the SW and Sadiqi was back to motor sailing again.

When I run the Volvo engine I take the front cover off to get some air circulating in the small engine space. Unfortunately, this heats up an already hot cabin and is as noisy as hell. At about 0300 I was having a sleep when I heard an almighty crack and bang. I was roused from my coma like sleep in a pico second and dashed to the cockpit. I put my foot on where the steps to the cockpit should have been and my big toe had a brief altercation with the alternator pulley and fan belt! A few words were said as I looked around to see what Sadiqi had hit or what had hit Sadiqi and saw nothing. Some blood oozed onto the cockpit sole. I was lucky that my toe was not ripped off. During the day I had seen large logs, trees and other detritus floating in the water. Sadiqi had probably hit a log. Fortunately at the speed she travels at no harm was apparent.

Friday November 21 at 0610 Winds were 5 to 8 knots NE roughly on the beam. It was slow going pushing against a 1 to 2 knot current in a lumpy sea.

0800 the wind was 2 to 5 knots from the SW. I started the engine again. The reason for running the engine is this was passage making. I wanted to get to a destination during daylight hours.

Noon 1200 UTC -5 - November 21

Wind 5 to 8 knots SW

Lat: 10 03.01 N Lon: 077 11.42 W

COG: 250 deg M, SOG: 2.5 knots

Engine: 1464.2 hours

69 miles since noon the previous day

1645 wind 5 to 8 knots N – on the beam.

I limped forward of the mast on my injured foot and put up Big Bertha (Asymmetrical spinnaker), once I had remembered out how to do it.

COG 250 degrees magnetic, SOG 3.5 to 4.5 knots. The speed through the water was 5.5 to 6 knots. Sadiqi was making some progress in the right direction.

2145 I dropped Big Bertha as I had been hand steering and I needed some rest.

Sadiqi sailed on through the night with the yankee and main sail up.

Saturday November 22

The wind held through the night and Sadiqi made good progress. The skipper managed to get some good rest without the heat and the noise of the engine.

Just after sunrise the winds became more fickle and I started the engine again. Sadiqi was nearing her destination.

Noon 1200 UTC -5 - November 22

Wind 5 to 10 knots NE

Lat: 09 30.07 N Lon: 078 30.83 W

COG: 237 deg M, SOG: 2 knots

Engine: 1473.2 hours

85.5 miles since noon the previous day

1345 Arrived Nargana, Corazone de Jesus, Kuna Yala (San Blas), Panama

Engine: 1474.9 hours

The contrast from the high rise apartments/hotels of Cartagena and Boca Grande to the no rise palm frond/rusty corrugated iron shacks of the villages on the islands of Nargana and Corazone de Jesus was extreme. I went ashore with Geoff and Alison from Saraoni. The people were very friendly and greeted us with smiles.

Colombia

Colombia

Wikipedia: Colombia

Noonsite: Colombia

Currency: Colombian Peso COP US$1 = 2000 Peso

Cruising in Colombia requires the use of an agent to clear in and out. I had been recommended the services of Gladis from Cursing Services Marine S.A.S by Steve and Angela on Pannikin. I had contacted Gladis before leaving Curacao.

Cruising Services Marine Agency S.A.S.

Gladis Ramos S. and Daniela Guerrero R.

Cel.: (57) 313 8944641 - 301 7326754

Cartagena - Bolívar - Colombia

Email: contacto@cruisingservices.com.co

Web: www.cruisingservices.com.co

The costs and duration of stay are very ambiguous.

US$110 includes about 10 days the costs of clearance in/out and services of maritime agent.

US$200 includes 20 days the cost of clearance in/out, boat temporary importation and services of maritime agent.

US$300 includes > 20 days cost of clearance in/out, boat temporary importation, Port of Cartagena Taxes and services of maritime agent.

Corrected fees and charges for staying in Cartagema:

US$110 includes  5 days Includes clearance in/out and maritime agent fees.

US$300 includes up to 60 days includes clearance in/out, boat temporary importation, tax permit for the boat-stay (Port Captaincy) and maritime agent fees.

If the boat stays  in Colombia more than 5 days the  following documentation:

Temporary importation - Customs, the cost of this is US90

Tax permit for the boat, Port Captaincy  (lasts for two months) the cost of this is US100

Club Nautico charges about US$30 per week for use of dingy dock, garbage, and shower facilities. The Club is being renovated.

http://www.clubnauticocartagena.com/

When I paid the Club Nautico fees I asked them to contact Gladis at Cruising Services Marine Agency. Gladis arrived at the club half an hour later. Gladis's English was far better than my Spanish. We went by taxi to immigration to get my passport stamped. Daniela came by Sadiqi the next day to take photographs for the boat temporary importation permit.

There are ATMs near the Carulla Supermarket not far away from Club Nautico. I purchased a Claro SIM card with Internet data access:

US$10 for the SIM card.

US$20 for 2 Gig data for 1 month.

Boca Grande

Club Nautico (foreground)

Boca Grande sunset

Before getting into to boat work and voyage planning I decided to explore this interesting, vibrant city. Mike from Sturdy Logic and I visited the Fort – Castillo San Felipe, then the walled city – Centro and Getsemani, Cartagena. Walking around the old city was fascinating. While searching for refreshment we happened upon Plaza Trinidad. While enjoying a cold Agilla beer we watched life go by – this was local life not canned tourism.

Cathedral in the old city

Wandering the colourful streets of the old Centro city:

 

 

 

Festivities in Plaza Trinidad

The harbour waters off Club Nautico are not particularly clean – being enclosed and well protected. While floating in the effluent in the affluent area of Munga (Club Nautico) I was fascinated watching the container ships, cruise ships, navy vessels, water taxis and tourist boats come and go in the harbour. In the early mornings and late afternoons the waters in the anchorage was rolly from the wakes of water taxis and tour boats leaving and returning from their various destinations. The busy container port just near by provided hours of entertainment watching the Lego like containers being stacked on the dock or on ships by huge meccano like cranes. Prince Charles visited Cartagena for some event. The festivities happened on board a frigate HMS Argyle not 200 metres from where Sadiqi was anchored. Mike from “Sturdy Logic” commented this was about as close to royalty he had ever been and likewise “Sadiqi”.

Cruisers I spent time with in Cartagena.

Sturdy Logic – Mike – from Ithaca – NY

Like Dolphins – Johan and Sonja - Belgium

Eye Candy – Andrew and Claire - Australia

It was safe to walk the streets of the old city at night. In the cool of the evening the streets and parks became a hive of activity with people walking/jogging playing sport etc. We visited a German pub “Leon de Bavaria” and watched great music videos from the 60s and on. On occasion there were good live bands playing in the small pub. Listening to the music, the likes of AC/DC, BonJovi, Beetles, David Bowie etc., being out of mainstream society for the last few years I pondered that I had been living under a metaphorical rock. I resolved that I needed to listen to more music.

All to soon it was time to clear out Cartagena. It appeared that the barnacles liked Sadiqi's bottom as much if not more than the skipper liked Cartagena. The barnacles grow rapidly in the warm, soupy, effluent, rich waters of Cartagena harbour. The bureaucracy is painfully slow to clear in and out even with an agent. Other than an entry stamp in my passport I had no further documentation after nearly two weeks. I advised Gladis of Cruising Services Marine Agency that I would clear out on Friday November 14. This gives sufficient time to prepare the Zarpe or Clearance certificate.

A few days before clearing out, while eating lunch a chunk of tooth broke off. I spoke to Claire on Eye Candy, she had seen a dentist here in Cartagena. Off I went to the dentist Dr Jorge Marcia Barraza. Using Google Translate on my android phone I managed to convey my need to see the dentist. An hour later I was in the dentists chair. He spoke passable English. A composite filling and minus 60 US dollars later my tooth was repaired. My clearing out of Cartagena was delayed again as there was holidays on Thursday, Friday and the following Monday. I was not going to complain about this as long as I was not going to be charged additional fees. Prior to clearing out on the November 18 I scraped as much growth off the hull and propeller as I could see. The visibility was very poor. This was the second time I had scrapped Sadiqi's hull for barnacles.

Sunrise Cartagena Container Terminal

Gladis from Cruising Services Marine Agency took me to Immigration to get my passport stamped and game me my Zarpe (Ships clearance papers). I appreciated her help as it appeared to be a tedious bureaucratic process, where even speaking the language does not hasten anything.

November 18 before 0610 the anchor slowly emerged from the ooze of Cartagena harbour. Having anchored in approximately 10 metres of water the first 8 metres of chain was covered in barnacles and small muscles. The wind was less than 5 knots from the east. Sadiqi slowly motored out past the high rise apartments and hotels of Bocca Grande, past the ships waiting to charge or discharge their cargoes and out to sea. The wind slowly increased from the south where we were headed. By 0930 I stopped the engine and Sadiqi sailed sluggishly. It felt like she was dragging half the Sargasso Sea. I was headed for Isla Grande of the Rosario islands some 18 miles south west of Bahia Cartagena. I was looking to give Sadiqi's bottom a good scrape and clean in the clear waters of the offshore island. I negotiated past the reefs and dropped anchor at 1145. The anchorage was indeed pleasant – palm trees, white sandy beaches, small resorts and tourists. I spent several hours scraping the hull of barnacles. I had cleaned the hull thoroughly when in Spanish Waters, Curacao. I had never seen the hull so foul and that is after having done a cursory scrape in the water in Cartagena harbour.

Bocca Grande

Curacao to Colombia

Curacao to Cartagena, Colombia

The 450 miles between Curacao and Cartagena is known for the worst weather conditions in the Caribbean, and ranks among the top five worst cruising passages around the world. The vicinity of the Andes mountains can cause the local Chocosono wind to be ferocious. This combined with counter currents from the normal fast westward moving current can cause nasty wind against current conditions. Picking a good weather window is important for a safe and comfortable passage.

List of Local Winds

Thursday 16-10-14

0800 leisurely Departure from Spanish Waters, Curacao

Engine 1396.2 hrs

Wind 14 to 15 knots SE

Departing Curacao

It was not the best of starts after exiting the narrow cut out to sea. Ken, the autopilot seemed to get emotional and fell apart. The ram is held together by duct tape. Smithy, the wind-vane, was stiff with a bent rod. Not far off the beach a pod of dolphins appeared and frolicked in the bow wave. I was unable to take photographs as I was hand steering at the time. All was sorted out with Smithy's rod being straightened and some new duct tape for Ken. Sadiqi was soon rolling down wind at 6 knots with Smithy steering. It felt really good to be sailing again. We soon rolled past Willimastad and the ships drifting offshore waiting to enter the harbour.

Williamstad

Noon 1200 UTC -Wind 14 to 16 knots ESE

Lat: 12 07.34 N Lon: 069 10.77 W

COG: 280 deg M, SOG: 6 knots

Engine: 1397.2

19 miles since departing Curacao.

1700 (Beer o clock)

Wind 18 - 22 knots NE – boisterous seas

SOG 7 knots.

Aruba visible.

Chasing sunsets

In the calmer waters in the lee of Aruba I had my dinner. An uneventful night sailing under mainsail only.

Friday 17-10-14

0600 UTC -5 Changed the time-zone.

Winds 16 to 20 knots ESE

COG: 270 deg M, SOG: 6 knots

Sailing under mainsail only. Very pleasant.

I ran the engine as batteries are low 11.8 volts.

The fridge was killing the batteries or the batteries are dying.

Noon 1200 UTC -5

Wind 14 to 18 knots ESE

Lat: 12 35.91 N Lon: 071 22.97 W

COG: 270 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots

Engine: 1398.4

132 miles since noon yesterday (25 hours)

1520 Due north of Punta Gallinas, Colombia.

Winds 12 to 15 knots ENE

COG: 265 deg M SOG: 5 knots

1900 Saw lots of lightening to the south over Colombia – can't hear the thunder.

Winds 14 to 16 knots E

Saturday 18-10-14

0015 Winds 16 to 20 knots SE

Cross Track error alarm sounded – Sadiqi was heading north to Mexico with the wind shift.

0200 wind 8 to 10 knots ENE

Sails banging and slatting in lumpy seas.

0600 Winds 10 to 12 knots E

Noon 1200 UTC -5

Wind 8 to 10 knots E

Lat: 12 02.55 N Lon: 073 00.95 W

COG: 245 deg M, SOG: 2.5 knots

Engine: 1399.6

102 miles since noon yesterday

1300 Wind picked up 12 to 15 knots NE

1600 Storm clouds – lightening and thunder toward land to the south.

1700 Wind 5 to 10 knots SW

Pushing against counter current.

Started engine 50 miles NE of Five Bays.

COG: 245 deg M, SOG: 3 knots.

Feathered Stowaways

2230 Wind 6 to 10 knot E

COG: 250 deg M, SOG: 1.5 knots! Slow

Sunday 19-10-14

Long, slow night – motor sailing.

Winds less than 5 kots from all over the place.

0630 Winds 10 to 12 knots SE

Winds picked up closer to shore

Five Bays, Colombia

0930 Entered Five Bays – Ensenada Chenque. Waved to the officials on the Armada Navico boat. The northern end of the Andes mountains appears to stop in the Fiord area of the Five Bays. Apparently, on a good day you can see the snow capped mountains.

1000 Dopped anchor – nudged a coral bommie – not good!

1015 Departed Ensenada Chenque. If the officials were around I decided not to risk an unauthorised stop over.

Engine 1414.1 hours. There were millions of butterflies, mainly white, flying over the water. It was like it was snowing butterflies.

1115 wind all over the place and not much of it.

Noon 1200 UTC -5

Wind 5 knots W

Lat: 11 20.52 N Lon: 074 15.48 W

COG: 270 deg M, SOG: 4 knots

Engine: 1415.1

84 miles since noon yesterday

Motor sailing again.

1415 Winds 8 to 12 knots E

Polled out jib.

Turned off the engine.

COG: 250 deg M, SOG: 4 knots.

1730 winds fading.

Turned on the engine to avoid a ship approaching Barranquilla, the mouth of the Magdalena river.

Thunder storms near Barranquilla

1900 No wind – lightening and thunder all around. The flashes of lightening briefly illuminating the huge storm clouds. The stars disappeared above the clouds. The darkness of the storm seemed to absorb all light and looked foreboding. The air temperature seemed to drop several degrees. Soon the large drops of rain began to fall. I was hoping it was not going to hail as that would hurt. The time difference between the flashes of retina searing lightening and the deafening claps of thunder was small. I made an attempt to protect my precious electronics by putting what would fit into the metal oven - a Faraday cage. I figured it was futile as a direct hit by lightening was likely to render everything toast – including me. These are not thoughts to dwell on. There was not much wind. The rain soon became torrential, visibility zero. The AIS showed me where ships were, most of them at anchor, and also showed Sadiqi to the ships. Sadiqi was barely making headway in what ever direction the sails would set – Smithy the wind-vane was at the helm. The noise of the torrential downpour hitting the deck,sails, canvas covers and the sea surface was a deafening roar. It was with relief when I noticed the rain begin to abate, the claps of thunder further away and the sky become lighter. This more than damp saga probably lasted half an hour. Sadiqi and the skipper had the first good freshwater wash in many months.

Monday 20-10-14

0200 zip wind – motoring!

Still trying to get past Barranquilla. The out flow from Rio Magdalena making it difficult to Sadiqi to push further west even with the engine running.

0600 woke to the sound of a gentle wind.

Wind 5 to 8 knots E

Pulled out the sails – gave the engine a well earned rest.

COG: 235 deg M, SOG 3.5 knots

Noon 1200 UTC -5

Wind 6 to 8 knots E

Lat: 10 53.86 N Lon: 075 17.93 W

COG: 215 deg M, SOG: 2 knots

Engine: 1429.4

70 miles since noon yesterday

Ghosting along in light winds and flat seas.

1305 Winds zip! Mainsail banging.

Started the engine – again.

Sadiqi was approximately 33 miles from Cartagena.

1500 Winds 5 to 8 knots NW

I turned off the engine and let Sadiqi drift. I swam to cool off and inspect the damage from nudging the coral bommie. Some bottom paint had been chipped off the keel. I doubt the coral would have suffered any damage – there unlikely to be any environmental impact.

1700 Beer o clock

24 miles from Cartagena.

1930 Wind less than 5 knots westerly.

Mainsail banging – started engine. I was a little reluctant to run the engine as I had noticed the charge from the alternator was fluctuating and the current was too high for the fully charged batteries.

2200 12 miles from Cartagena (Boca Grande entrance)

Wind 8 to 12 N

Bare poles drifting westwards. I did not want to make a night entrance.

COG: 200 M, SOG: 1.5 knots

21-10-14 Tuesday

0445 Wind less than 10 knots South – where I was pretty much headed.

Started the engine.

Boca Grande, Cartagena

0645 – entered the Bocca Grande through the narrow entrance.

0745 – Dropped anchor off Club Nautico, Cartagena.

Engine 1436.0 hours.

After everything was squared away I went to sleep for several hours.