Sunday 12 April 2015

Ecuador to French Polynesia


Saturday April 11, 
0800 Sadiqi departed Puerto Amistad, Bahia Caraquez (legally) (day 0)
Engine: 1561.8 hours

Crossing the Rio Chone sand bar without the pilot was uneventful. I had retained my tracks from previous entry and exits. There was very little wind making for glassy, flat seas.
Depart Bahia Caraquez
Noon 1200 UTC -5 - April 11
Wind 9 knots NW
Lat: 00 44.01 S, Lon: 080 38.28 W
COG: 240 deg M, SOG: 4.0 knots
Engine: 1566.4 hours
16 miles since departing Bahia Caraquez.

1700 - beer o clock - motor sailing southwards to find wind.

12-04-15 Sunday (day 1)
0330 Wind +10 knots (T) S
Setup Smithy the windpilot. With sails filled it was a relief to turn off the engine.
COG: 250 deg M, SOG: 3.0 knots
Pushing against the Peru/Humbolt current.

0730 Wind less the 10 knots SE (T)
Started engine to push south west against the current.
OSCAR Current GRIB File - between Galapagos and Ecuador
Noon 1200 UTC -5 - April 17
Wind 5 - 8 knots (T) SSW
Lat: 01 37.67 S, Lon: 081 43.42 W
COG: 225 deg M, SOG: 3.5 knots
Engine: 1587.0 hours
84 miles since noon the previous day.
Motor sailing.

1700 - beer o clock (UTC -5).
Changed the time zone to UTC -6 hours.
1700 - Beer o clock (UTC -6 :)
This enables the skipper to have two beer o clocks in one day. The alternative was to wait 25 hours until the next beer o clock. It's only taken two oceans for the skipper to finally figure that one out. (Time management:).

I poured 20 litres of diesel from a jerry can into the main fuel tank.
Engine: 1592.1 hours.
Pacific Sunset
2200 wind 10 knots SSW
Crossed latitude 02 degrees south.

2215 Wind 10 to 12 knots SSW
Turned off the engine. The silence to be sailing was wonderful.
COG:250 deg M, SOG: 3.5 knots.

13-04-15 Monday (day 2)
0600 Winds 15 knots S
COG: 254 deg M, SOG: 6 knots
Good sailing overnight. Some fishing boats about.

0800 Logged onto Pan Pacific net.
I had not been able to use the SSB radio with the engine running due to noise and interference.

Noon 1200 UTC -6 - April 13
Wind 12 - 15 knots (T) SE
Lat: 02 30.34 S, Lon: 083 08.66 W
COG: 236 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots
Engine: 1598.4 hours
100.2 miles since noon the previous day (25 hours).
Great sailing in a cross swell.

14-04-15 Tuesday (day 3)
0600 Wind 12 - 15 knots (T) SE
Great sailing overnight. The skipper had a very good nights sleep with less fishing boats to worry about.

0800 Wind 15 kmots SE
Logged onto Pan Pacific net
Lat: 02 51.14 S, Lon 084 25.44 W

Noon 1200 UTC -6 - April 14
Wind 10 - 12 knots ESE
Lat: 02 55.40 S, Lon: 084 44.70 W
COG: 260 deg M, SOG: 4.5 knots
Engine: 1599.5 hours
99 miles since noon the previous day.
Nice sailing with the wind on the beam.

1430 Wind 5 - 8 knots SE
Sails slatting and banging in a knarly seas. I dropped the sails, went for a swim and cleaned some of the crud off the bottom of Sadiqi.
Water leaking past the prop shaft seal (stern gland).

1530 Wind 8 - 10 knots SE
Seas more settled - sailing again.

15-04-15 Wednesday (day 4)
A slow roly sail overnight. Wind at times 7 knots from the NE.

0800 Logged on to Pan Pacific Net
Lat: 03 21 S, Lon: 085 44 W
COG: 230 deg M, SOG: 3.5 knots
Wind 10 knots ESE

Noon 1200 UTC -6 - April 15
Wind 10 - 12 knots (T) ESE
Lat: 03 33.62 S, Lon: 085 53.54 W
COG: 240 deg M, SOG: 5 knots
Engine: 1599.5 hours
78 miles since noon the previous day.

1430 Winds dropped to less than 5 knots. Shortly afterward swung 180 degrees from the NW at 10 knots. I put Sadiqi onto a starboard tack. There were several dark storm cells further to the south.

1630 The winds dropped again the sails banging and slatting.
Started the engine.

1900 very little wind from anywhere. I stopped the engine, dropped the sails and Sadiqi drifted with the current, which appeared to be pushing south. The skipper went to sleep. Several times I heard dolphins around the boat during the night. The waning moon rose early in the morning making for dark star filled nights.

16-04-15 Thursday (day 5)
Just after midnight I woke to the sound of heavy rain. The wind was 6 to 8 knots from the south.
I raised the sails. There was a nasty sloppy sea which caused the sails to bang and slat.
Sadiqi was making about 1 knot headway southwards. It was a very long night.

0600 I woke to a grey wet day. I forgot how many times had I lowered and raised the sails during the night when the wind picked up or eased off.

1135 Winds less than 5 knots W.
I started the engine and pushed further south trying to find the south east trade winds.

Noon 1200 UTC -6 - April 16
Wind 8 - 10 knots (T) SE
Lat: 04 11.64 S, Lon: 086 29.87 W
COG: 225 deg M, SOG: 4 knots
Engine: 1604.4 hours
52 miles since noon the previous day.
Motor sailing to get to the trade winds.

1400 Winds 8 to 10 knots SE.
I stopped the engine - sailing again.

2200 Wind 15 knots (T) SE
Romping along at 6 knots on 240 deg M
Put a reef in the mainsail.
A nice contrast from the previous night.

17-04-15 Friday (day 6)

0600 Wind 15 knots SE
COG: 240 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots.
It was a good fast sail overnight.
Sunrise Pacific
0800 Logged onto Pan Pacific net.
Said thanks and good bye as I was reaching the limit of the Net's range.
Wind 18 knots T SE
COG: 225 deg M, SOG: 4 knots
Lat: 04 50 S, Lon: 088 01 W

Noon 1200 UTC -6 - April 17
Wind 18 - 20 knots T SE
Lat: 04 49.55 S, Lon: 088 23.99 W
COG: 270 deg M, SOG: 6 knots
Engine: 1607.6 hours
120 miles since noon the previous day.
Good sailing in lumpy seas.

18-04-15 Saturday (day 7)

Two squalls to 20 knots passed over early in the morning.

0340 Approximately 230 miles due south of the Galapagos Islands.

Noon 1200 UTC -6 - April 18
Wind 12 - 15 knots T SE
Lat: 05 00.64 S Lon: 090 39.04 W
COG: 260 deg M, SOG: 5 knots
Engine: 1607.6 hours
135 miles since noon the previous day.
Happily rolling along.

19-04-15 Sunday (day 8)

Noon 1200 UTC -6 - April 19
Wind 10 - 12 knots T SE
Lat: 05 10.51 S, Lon: 092 59.00 W
COG: 250 deg M, SOG: 5 knots
Engine: 1608.8 hours
140 miles since noon the previous day.

I poured 20 litres of diesel from a jerry can filling the main fuel tank.
Engine: 16908.8 hours.

In the calmer conditions after the wind slop had died down I gave myself and some laundry a good wash.

20-04-15 Monday (day 9)
A few wind and rain squalls over took Sadiqi during the night.
First light showed grey, damp skies.

Noon 1200 UTC -6 - April 20
Wind 16 - 18 knots T NE
Lat: 05 44.77 S, Lon: 095 03.30 W
COG: 270 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots
Engine: 1608.8 hours
128 miles since noon the previous day.

Miserable Monday. Almost continuous dark clouds with drizzly rain past overhead.

21-04-15 Tuesday (day 10)

Winds steadily picked up through the moonless, starry night.

0600 Wind 24 – 28 knots T SE
Furled the mainsail and sailed with the Yankee sail only.
There was an unknown squeak and rattle coming from the head-sail furling gear.

Noon 1200 UTC -6 - April 21
Wind 18 - 22 knots (T) SE
Lat: 06 07.08 S, Lon: 097 24.55 W
COG: 265 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots
Engine: 1609.9 hours
142 miles since noon the previous day.
Rolling along under Yankee head-sail only.

22-04-15 Wednesday (day 11)
A roly night under head-sail only.

0600 Wind 14 - 16 knots (T) ENE
I raised the mail, leaving the equivalent of one reef and poled out the jib.
COG: 170 deg M, SOG: 6 knots

Made and baked bread. The Ecuadorian Bimbo bread had finally succumbed to mould.

Noon 1200 UTC -6 - April 22
Wind 15 knots (T) ESE
Lat: 06 15.26 S, Lon: 099 34.45 W
COG: 280 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots
Engine: 1609.9 hours
129 miles since noon the previous day.

The swamp, formerly known as the fore cabin smelt damp. The bears were complaining. I had noticed water coming in when heading to windward in rough seas. The new Goiot Traditional hatch leaks! The rubber seal is so stiff that it can not be compressed enough to make a complete seal with the plastic locking handles. I managed to tie a line to seal the hatch better. Goiot hatches are now on Sadiqi's shit list!

1700 - Beer o clock UTC -6
Change time zone to UTC -7 hours
1700 Beer o clock UTC -7 :)
Wind 8 to 10 knots T ESE
COG: 250 deg M, SOG: 4.5 knots

23-04-15 Thursday (day 12)
0600 – Looked to be a nice sunny day.
Wind 10 – 12 knots T ESE
COG: 250 deg M, SOG: 4.5 knots

I used Chuck on Jacarandas' idea of dragging a line from the bow to discourage goose neck barnacles on the hull. I improvised further and dragged the aft end of the line up the hull, moving forward. The aft section of Smithy, the Windpilot's, rudder had a few goose neck barnacles attaching themselves.

Noon 1200 UTC -7
Wind 12 -15 knots (T) SE
Lat: 06 14.66 S, Lon: 101 40.20 W
COG: 270 deg M, SOG: 5.0 knots
Engine: 1609.9 hours
125 miles since noon the previous day.
Rolling along. Fish are not being particularly cooperative. This is despite actually dragging a hook behind the boat and performing suitable libations at Beer o clock.

24-04-15 Friday (day 13)
0600 Wind 16 - 18 knots (T) ESE
GOG: 250 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots

Noon 1200 UTC -7
Wind 10 -14 knots (T) ESE
Lat: 06 21.55 S, Lon: 103 46.74 W
COG: 270 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots
Engine: 1609.9 hours
126 miles since noon the previous day.

25-04-15 Saturday (day 14)
0600 Wind 14 - 16 knots T ESE
GOG: 240 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots

0930 Wind swinging more to the east.
Poled out the jib - running dead downwind.
GOG: 270 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots

Noon 1200 UTC -7
Wind 8 -10 knots (T) ENE
Lat: 06 44.76 S, Lon: 106 04.03 W
COG: 265 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots
Engine: 1609.9 hours
138 miles since noon the previous day.

26-04-15 Sunday (day 15)

0600 Wind 14 - 16 knots T ESE
COG: 275 deg M, SOG: 6.5 knots
Sailing overnight with poled out jib.

Made and baked bread while surfing 2 metre swell at up to 9 knots.

Noon 1200 UTC -7
Wind 12 -16 knots T ESE
Lat: 06 15.67 S, Lon: 108 26.65 W
COG: 270 deg M, SOG: 6.0 knots
Engine: 1610.4 hours
144.5 miles since noon the previous day.

Late afternoon the wind swung further to the SE. I removed the pole and had the wind just aft the beam. Sadiqi appeared to be travelling in favourable current. I had checked the OSCAR current files and the west setting current seemed to be near 6 degrees latitude.

1700 Beer o clock.
Wind 12 to 14 knots T SE
COG: 260 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots
Roughly half way to the destination - 1,800 miles to go.

27-04-15 Monday (day 16)

0115 Winds 25 - 30 knots T SE
Tipped out of the bunk with Sadiqi heeling and sails flapping.
Took a slab out of the mainsail making for two reefs.

0600 Wind 16 - 18 knots T SE
COG: 265 deg M, COG: 5.5 knots
Grey skies.

Noon 1200 UTC -7
Wind 18 - 20 knots T SE
Lat: 06 07.35 S, Lon: 110 51.54 W
COG: 260 deg M, SOG: 6.0 knots
Engine: 1610.4 hours
144 miles since noon the previous day.
A grey Monday in favourable current.

The seas became choppy and very uncomfortable over night.

28-04-15 Tuesday (day 17)

0130 Wind 12 - 15 knots SE
Unfurled the main to leave the equivalent of a single reef.

0600 Wind 12 - 14 Knots SE
COG: 260 deg M, SOG: 5 knots

Noon 1200 UTC -7
Wind 14 -16 knots (T) SE
Lat: 06 04.22 S, Lon: 113 12.97 W
COG: 255 deg M, SOG: 6.0 knots
Engine: 1611.0 hours
141 miles since noon the previous day.
A grey Monday in favourable current.

1700 - Beer o clock UTC -7
Change time zone to UTC -8 hours
1700 Beer o clock UTC -8 :)
Wind 12 to 15 knots T SE
COG: 265 deg M, SOG: 5 knots

It helps to have a good Time zone map of the world to figure the time zone changes.
The method I use: divide 360 degrees by 24 hours, or better still, divide 180 degrees by 12 hours, as there are 180 degrees west and east either side of meridian zero (GMT/UTC). From meridian zero add seven and half degrees, going west and east, then add fifteen degrees to give each time zone boundary. This is a general rule of thumb as time zones are bent to suit territorial boundaries. Sailing so close the the equator I don't worry about daylight saving changes.

29-04-15 Wednesday (day 18)

0600 Wind 12 - 15 knots T ESE
COG: 265 deg M, SOG 5.5 knots
Poled out jib again as wind starting to swing to the east.
Beautiful sunny morning.

0930 Was called up on VHF by sailing vessel “Ednabel” with Roger and Sasha on board from Fremantle. They had a rip in the mail and were sailing on jib alone. I was told that several yachts had had problems with shrouds parting and chain plates breaking in the rough seas. These are the important wires and components that hold up the mast.

Noon 1200 UTC -8
Wind 12 -15 knots (T) East
Lat: 06 02.49 S, Lon: 115 38.57 W
COG: 275 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots
Engine: 1611.0 hours
144.8 miles since noon the previous day (25 hours).
I spotted “Ednabel” 2 miles ahead.

30-04-15 Thursday (day 19)
0600 Wind 12 - 15 knots T E
COG: 265 deg M, SOG: 6 knots.
A very large dolphin played in the bow wave for a time early in the morning.

Noon 1200 UTC -8
Wind 12 -16 knots T ESE
Lat: 05 42.06 S, Lon: 118 04.58 W
COG: 260 deg M, SOG: 6.5 knots
Engine: 1611.0 hours
147 miles since noon the previous day.
Rolling along in a groove of ocean going in the same direction.

1600 The fishing reel screamed – finally a fish was hooked. Alas, the fish escaped.
Way too much excitement for one day.

01-05-15 Friday (day 20)
0600 Wind 12 - 15 knots T ESE
COG: 270 deg M, SOG: 6.5 knots

Cleaned tenacious Goose neck barnacles off Smithy the WindPilot Rudder.

Noon 1200 UTC -8
Wind 14 -18 knots T SE
Lat: 05 43.95 S, Lon: 120 33.54 W
COG: 260 deg M, SOG: 6.5 knots
Engine: 1611.0 hours
148 miles since noon the previous day.

He who hesitates looses the fish! While cooking bacon for my lunch of bacon, mayonnaise and cheese sandwich the fishing reel, bolted to the stern rail, screamed. I leapt into the cockpit and increased the drag, on the Alvey winch, to slow the line spooling off the reel. I could feel the heat from the reel. Once the screaming slowed and the fish appeared to be being dragged behind the boat I began to reel it in. The wind had increased by about 5 knots to compound things and Sadiqi was rolling around at up to 9 knots. I furled the Jib to try and slow the boat so I could reel in the fish. This took some doing. I eventually caught a glimpse of a flash of silver. When I could see fish fairly close to the stern I had to be careful that it did not tangle with Smithy the Windpilot steering Sadiqi. I managed to gaff the fish. My hesitation came when I was trying to figure how to bring the 5 to 7 kilogram Tuna/Bonito into the cockpit without the cockpit ending up looking like a slaughterhouse. Unfortunately, the fish slipped off the gaff. That is my story anyway – the one that got away. At least I know there are fish around. The rest of the afternoon I sailed on mainsail alone as the winds had picked up to 22 knots SE.

02-05-15 Saturday (day 21)

Noon 1200 UTC -8
Wind 12 -15 knots (T) SE
Lat: 05 58.54 S, Lon: 122 46.43 W
COG: 270 deg M, SOG: 4.5 knots
Engine: 1611.5 hours
133 miles since noon the previous day.

Scattered showers about. Winds to 18 knots in squalls. I managed to capture some rain off the mainsail. Less favourable current was becoming more apparent.

03-05-15 Sunday (day 22)

0600 Wind 15 knots ESE
Full moon with clear skies overnight.
Poled out Jib and single reef in the mainsail - running downwind.
COG: 265 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots
Did the laundry and gave myself a haircut - what little of it there is.
Used the Jacaranda method of wiping the hull while under way.

Noon 1200 UTC -8
Wind 16 -18 knots (T) E
Lat: 05 41.95 S, Lon: 125 01.01 W
COG: 265 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots
Engine: 1611.5 hours
135 miles since noon the previous day.
Dropped the pole on the jib and set course 245 deg M
COG: 245 deg M, SOG: 5,5 knots

04-05-15 Monday (day 23)

0025 Wind 26 knots ENE
Put a second reef in the mainsail.
COG: 240 deg M, SOG: 5 knots

Noon 1200 UTC -8
Wind 15 -18 knots T E
Lat: 06 20.48 S, Lon: 127 07.44 W
COG: 250 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots
Engine: 1611.5 hours
131 miles since noon the previous day.
Made and baked bread.

1700 - Beer o clock UTC -8
Change time zone to UTC -9 hours
1700 Beer o clock UTC -9 :)
And there's still another time zone to go.

05-05-15 Tuesday (day 24)

Noon 1200 UTC -9
Wind 20 knots (T) E
Lat: 06 56.93 S, Lon: 129 16.60 W
COG: 243 deg M, SOG: 6 knots
Engine: 1611.5 hours
133 miles since noon the previous day (25 hours).

The sea state on this passage has generally been uncomfortable with seas and swell coming from all directions. Quite often a nasty set of waves will conspire to tip me into the fridge as I reach in for items, or attempt to throw me across the cabin as I move about.

06-05-15 Wednesday (day 25)

0035 The witching hour - half past midnight. The winds increased to around 28 knots from the east south east. I partially furled the head sail and continued sailing with two good sized reefs in the main. Smithy the Windpilot was happier steering on a broad reach in seas up to 3 metres.
COG: 240 deg M, SOG: 6 knots.

Noon 1200 UTC -9
Wind 18 - 22 knots (T) ESE
Lat: 07 30.30 S, Lon: 131 25.45 W
COG: 245 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots
Engine: 1611.5 hours
132 miles since noon the previous day.

I was surprised at how consistent the average speed over the ground (SOG) had been – 5.5 to 6 knots.

07-05-15 Thursday (day 26)

0500 The wind swung to the east north east at 20 knots in the early morning.
I poled out the jib to make for a better more comfortable angle.
COG: 240 deg M, SOG: 5 knots

I thought I would temp fate and leave the fishing lure dragging behind the boat while making and baking bread. This seemed to work. While waiting for the bread to rise the second time and reading a book by Tess Gerritson the reel started to screech. Ms. Gerritson writes a bloody good yarn - literally. I furled the poled out head-sail to slow the boat and made ready to reel in the catch. I eventually managed to bring the, I'd say close to 10 Kg, mackerel in to the cockpit. It was a real shame there was no one else to share the fish with. I hacked off a fillet and recycled the rest. It's good to know there are fish out there. There just seems to be a lot of water between them.

Finally a fish
Noon 1200 UTC -9
Wind 10 - 15 knots (T) ENE
Lat: 08 13.69 S, Lon: 133 20.57 W
COG: 245 deg M, SOG: 5 knots
Engine: 1612.0 hours
122 miles since noon the previous day.

08-05-15 Friday (day 27)

Noon 1200 UTC -9
Wind 12 - 16 knots (T) ENE
Lat: 08 59.85 S, Lon: 135 12.90 W
COG: 240 deg M, SOG: 4.5 knots
Engine: 1612.0 hours
120 miles since noon the previous day.

09-05-15 Saturday (day 28)

1000 Wind 12 to 14 knots NE
Making too much south. I jybed onto Starboard.
COG: 250 deg M, SOG: 4 knots
After nearly a month on a port tack it seemed strange being on a different tack. A lot of things down below protested noisily, with jars, bottles, cutlery, tools etc. relocating themselves for the wild and different heeling angle. I only stayed on the starboard tack for few hours as it seemed more rough than the alternative.

Noon 1200 UTC -9
Wind 10 - 12 knots (T) NE
Lat: 09 49.62 S, Lon: 136 58.30 W
COG: 260 deg M, SOG: 4 knots
Engine: 1612.0 hours
118 miles since noon the previous day.

After beer o clock each day I check for emails using sailmail on the High Frequency, Single Side Band Radio with Pactor modem. The early mornings and evenings usually have the best propagation to connect with with the shore based stations. My intention had been to head for Fatu Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia. However, Fatu Hiva is not an official port of entry. I received and email from “Fairwinds” advising that the authorities were fining boats that had not cleared in to an official port of entry. I decided to skip the possible bureaucratic BS and clear in at Hiva Oa a little further north of Fatu Hiva. The difference was that I would probably arrive after dark. Not something that I like doing. I chose to stand out to sea and time my arrival at Hiva Oa early Monday morning. I jybed the double reefed main and Sadiqi rolled, sometimes violently, slowly northwards.
COG: 320 deg M, SOG: 2 knots

10-05-15 Sunday (day 29)

1030 It was some reluctance that I jybed Sadiqi back onto port and we headed to port and civilisation.

Noon 1200 UTC -9
Wind 10 - 15 knots (T) ENE
Lat: 09 14.16 S, Lon: 137 55.64 W
COG: 260 deg M, SOG: 2 knots
Engine: 1612.0 hours
Approximately 70 miles since noon the previous day.
74 miles from Atuona, Hiva Oa, Marquesas, French Polynesia

1700 - Beer o clock UTC -9
Change time zone to UTC -9.5 hours
1700 Beer o clock UTC -9.5 :)

11-05-15 Monday (day 30)

0830 Sadiqi was called on VHF channel 16 by “Hiva Oa Signal Station” and welcomed to French Polynesia. The signal station had picked up Sadiqi's AIS signal.

0940 Arrived Atuona, Hiva Oa, Marquesas, French Polynesia
Engine: 1614.3 hours (Approximately 50 litres of diesel was used since leaving Ecuador)

The Tahauku anchorage was small with 16 other yachts anchored fore and aft (Mediterranean style). I dropped my stern Danforth anchor and gently motored forward, making sure the anchor line did not go near the prop. I then dropped the forward Rocna anchor and pulled the stern line until the lines were tight, then allowing for tidal changes.