Tuesday 11 January 2011

Similan Islands

Friday January 7 at 01.00am I set sail for Similan islands. I had hoped to get a good north easterly land breeze (beam reach) all the way to the Similan islands. For awhile I had the Asymmetrical, coloured sail up and sailing along nicely. At around midday the winds dropped and the motor was started. As we neared the northern most island of the group, Ko Similan, the heavens opened and it poured with rain, with drops the size of golf balls.

I arrived at Ko Similan, one of nine islands in the group, at 15.00 and picked up a mooring in Donald Duck Bay, a fairly sheltered bay in the North East wind. According to Rob Heikell’s Cruising Guide the only safe over night anchorage on the Similan group of islands. However, the winds had swung to the south and a swell had picked up so the boat was bouncing around on the mooring a good deal. The Similan islands, consisting of nine islands, are a national park with crystal clear water and a scuba diving haven.

I swam on the mooring to check that it would hold overnight, it was well attached to a huge bit of concrete and the water was indeed crystal clear. I went ashore to pay my dues; 400 Baht (Au$12.00)/per person and 100 Baht (AU$3.00) / day vessel fee. Had I had scuba tanks onboard I would have had to pay an additional fee. Later in the evening there were peels of thunder and flashes of lightening, all a bit too close for my liking. The boat continued to rock and roll all night, needless to say it was not the best night sleep I’d had despite being a tad tired from the 14 hour sail from Phuket.

The next day the peaceful anchorage with several other yachts and a few large live-aboard dive boats was invaded by the day tripper boats and hundreds of tourists. I had hoped that the Similan Island would be out of range of the day tripper boats with multiple powerful outboard motors, alas I was wrong. The Similan Islands are one and half to two hour speed boat ride from the mainland.

I used the Hooka/Powerdive unit to dive on the reef. The reef was generally dead with some live brain coral, there was an abundance of reef fish. I can only assume that the coral has evolved to disguise itself in drab colours to protect itself, unfortunately that is unlikely. Several years ago some enterprising fishermen used to use dynamite to catch fish and in the process destroyed the habitat – go figure. This was the first time I had used the Powerdive unit at any depth. The small compressor is powered by a 12 volt 35 Amp Hour AGM battery. I loaded all the gear into the inflatable dingy, then attached a 15 meter line, max depth, to my weight belt. Once I was below 10 metres I really had to suck on the air. It is more a breathing technique and breathing very slowly to allow the little compressor to pump air down 10 metres or one atmosphere. The problem with having scuba tanks on board is getting them filled and getting the required annual scuba tank tests etc. The Powerdive unit is simple and effective. It enables me to clean the bottom of the boat and get down to a maximum depth of around 15 metres (breathing very slowly), which is about all I need.

I motored to Ko Miang where there is another ranger station, restaurants, camp sites and some bungalows. A plethora of day dripper boats with Day-Glo life jacket clad tourists turned up during the day turning the anchorage into a veritable quagmire with the comings and goings. The Day tripper boats would start to turn up around 10.00am and leave around 15.00 in the afternoon when peace and tranquillity would return to the islands once more.

I departed Ko Miang and headed for Phuket at 17.30 on Monday January 10. I had looked at the weather forecasts and the winds were decreasing during the week. Internet access was available on the islands, all be it very very slow. I think this communications infrastructure is part of a Tsunami Warning system.

Initially the winds were strong enough to enable Sadiqi to sail along at five knots. The winds from the south west slowly decreased during the night. By 4.00am I started the motor and motor sailed as the sails were starting to crash and slat from one side to the other in the, almost negligible, swell. The wind swung to the east and steadily decreased to almost nothing by 7.00am.

I dropped anchor in Nai Harn Bay on the southern end of Phuket Island at 9.15am. I had seen a large cruise ship heading to Patong Bay on the way past and thought it best to skip that as a peaceful anchorage. I met up with Rob and Tricia on “Bluet”. Nai Harn is a pleasant, all be it rolly, anchorage with clear water. Many boats that were anchored in Ao Chalang on the east side of Phuket had moved to the relative shelter of Nai Harn on the south west corner. There was still a swell rolling in from the southwest which makes going ashore in the dingy an interesting challenge.