Monday September 3 – 1015, I departed Nosy Skatia, Madagascar.
Nosy Sakatia:
Lat: 13 18.06 S
Lon: 048 10.61 E
Wind - not much from the south west - where I was headed.
Engine hours: 1027.8 Hours. I waved good bye to Bruce and Jill on "Daemon" and Des and Nell on Sakatia.
By midday the sea breeze was in - 15 knots from the west south west. Sadiqi was beating to windward at 5 knots, Smithy the windpilot was happily whistling tunes at the helm.
We arrived at Russian Bay at 15.30 after a great sail of 18 miles.
Russian Bay:
Lat: 13 32.72 S
Lon: 047 58.73 E
The tranquility of Russian Bay is astonishing. I woke early in the morning thinking I had gone completely deaf. Then I heard the fridge compressor start up and a bird chirping. The water around Sadiqi was like a millpond.
 |
| Sunrise Russian Bay |
There is no internet or mobile phone access in Russian Bay. I had difficulty connecting to sailmail using HF radio. I was not sure if this was the HF station in Maputo, Mozambique or had something to do with the composition of the surrounding terrain - limestone absorb radio waves. I did, however, manage to listen in on Peri Peri Net HF - 8101Mhz USB at 0500 and 1500 hours UTC for weather info.
 |
| Millpond Russian Bay |
After nearly a week enjoying the serenity of Russian Bay Roy on "Sealoon" turned up and shortly after that Bruce and Jill on "Daemon" found me.
Monday September 10 at 1100, I sadly departed Russian Bay heading south west to Baramahamay Bay (Honey River) only 20 miles away. The sea breeze came in at around 1300 at 10 to 15 knots from the west south west. I saw a large lone whale swimming north. After a very pleasant sail the anchor was dropped at 1630 hours.
Baramahamay Bay:
Lat: 13 42.73 S
Lon: 047 54.00 E
Wednesday September 12 at 0500, I departed Baramahamay Bay for the 40 mile trip to Nosy Saba. I motored sailed against the current and in light head winds to Radama group of islands. Around Midday the wind was due west at 5 to 6 knots, I raised the asymmetrical spinnaker and Sadiqi ploughed southward at 4 knots. Around this time I also noticed several large whales in the distance heading northwards.
As far as the fishing goes the fish appear to be winning. I have lost twice as many fishing lures as I have caught and landed fish. Two more lures were lost to presumable large fish on this trip.
 |
| Nosy Saba |
Nosy Saba:
Lat: 14 21.79 S
Lon: 047 38.96 E
Thursday September 13 at 0545 I pulled the anchor and headed 44 miles toward Moramba Bay. The winds were 10 to 12 knots south south east what a great sail. At times the seas were a little boisterous, both boat and skipper were liberally sprayed with salt water. Smithy the windpilot did and outstanding job of helming the boat on a beam reach, as the winds picked up to 15 to 20 knots with some gusts to 25 knots. In the lee of Nosy Lava Sadiqi was driving through the flat water at 7 knots (SOG). The last 5 miles were a beat to windward into Moramba Bay. The anchor was dropped at 1330. The average speed for the 44 mile trip was around 5.5 knots. Moramba Bay proving to be an interesting and windy place. I had anchored in amongst some strange tree covered limestone islands that appeared to be precariously floating on the water.
Moramba Bay:
Lat: 14 53.47 S
Lon: 047 19.97 E
 |
| Moramba Bay - Baobab |
 | |
| Moramba Bay- floating islands |
 |
| Moramba Bay Sunrise - heading south west |
 |
| The guy balancing on the outrigger must have been on steerage class. |
Saturday September 15 at 0545 I pulled the anchor and headed southwest. The wind was 10 to 15 knots south east - beam reach. Still in the bay I was quickly overhauled by a lateen rigged pirogue as if I was at anchor. At the time Sadiqi was doing 6 knots in the same direction. The two crew were standing on the windward outrigger trying to keep the floating side of the outrigger from submerging. The helmsman was lying low in the stern of the large canoe steering with a paddle. I was given white toothy grin and a wave as the pirogue flew past. It's amazing how fast they go with just a holey bed sheet for a sail, a few sticks for spars and hemp sheets and halyards.
I had tried to break the trip up into 40 mile legs, 40 miles can easily be sailed in day light hours - weather permitting. After Moramba Bay this proved difficult as there was not a handy bay to shelter in. The fishing town of Mahajanga is not a good anchorage for cruisers if one values their possessions and even their life. I had heard the weather on thePeri Peri net that there were strong (up to 35 knots) south east winds forecast. If there were strong south east winds then there was a good chance the sea breeze would not blow or be very weak. I thought I could drop the anchor near the beach to get protection from the south east trade wind. Not a chance, at 1400 the south east wind suddenly swung to the south west 12 to 18 knots sea breeze and stayed in until around 2000 hours, then dropped to almost nothing.
Sunday September 16 at 1500 Sadiqi arrived at Baly Bay .A long hard sail in light airs and following winds.. I tried to find a sheltered anchorage from the 12 to 18 knot northly wind with no luck. The large shallow bay is exposed to weather from the north. I eventually dropped anchor in the north eastern part of the bay and rocked and rolled in the wind chop. I was mindful of the large tides as it was coming up for the second larges tides in the year - the equinox spring tides - 4.5 metres.
Baly Bay:
Lat: 16 00.33 S
Lon: 045 20.35 E
The wind pattern in Baly Bay
was quite predicable. At sunrise the winds tended to be light 5 knots from the
south to south east. By midmorning the wind swung to the east increasing in
strength to around 10 knots. The wind would continue to strengthen swinging
north east to north. The bay is very exposed to the northerly winds with short,
sharp, choppy wind waves. By evening the wind would swing to the west
decreasing. The tidal currents are strong the bay mostly being pretty shallow.
Tuesday September 18 at 2300
Sadiqi was bouncing and rolling around in the half metre wind chop. The 12 to
18 knot wind had stayed south west. The anchor alarm went off indicating that
Sadiqi was either dragging or GPS satellites were playing up. As it turned out
the snubber line attached to the anchor chain, to give some stretch, had come
unhooked. With Sadiqi's foredeck rising and falling up to a metre in the waves
the anchor was being jerked out of the sandy bottom. My other concern was the
tide there being less than half a meter under the keel at low tide and with the
chop this meant the keel may well bounce on the bottom. I hauled the anchor and
headed due west to the other side of the bay and dropped the anchor in 2 metres
of water at low tide - plenty of water under the keel.
0200 - Sadiqi was not happy
bouncing and rolling around again in the 12 to 18 knots south easterly -
onshore! The flooding tide into the bay was causing a large current pushing
Sadiqi broadside to the waves again. It was too rough for me to sleep. I hauled
anchor again and decided - bugger it - just go.
Wednesday September 19 -
0230
Departed Baly Bay, Madagascar
Log: 7045.3 Nm
COG: 273 Deg M
Winds: 12 to 18 Kts E
Engine: 1050.1 Hrs
We had a very pleasant sail
out of the bay against the 2 to 3 knots flooding tidal current. A few cups of
coffee later, I found my sense of humour and enjoyed the very early morning
vista of crisp air, clear starry skies and choppy seas. Around sunup the 10 to
12 knots easterly was directly aft. I poled out the jib - boat speed 5 to 5.5
knots.
 | |
| Poled out |
Noon 19-09-12 – Wednesday
Time: 12.00L UTC+3.0
Lat: 15 58.73 S
Lon: 044 41.14 E
Log: 7089.4 Nm
COG: 260 Deg M
Winds: 8 to 12 Kts E
Engine: 1050.1 Hrs
Distance covered since
departing Baly Bay 82.8 Miles.
1450 passed 10.2 Nm north of
Cap Saint Andre. Winds 10 to 12 knots north.
2200 Winds 5 - 6 knots WNW -
sails slatting and banging. SOG 2 knots!
2300 started engine. Sloppy
confused seas. Sadiqi bouncing and rolling around as if a washing machine on
heavy duty cycle. Very strong northerly setting current.
2330 crossed the continental
shelf. Depth falling sharply from 20 metres to 2000 metres. Hoping for smoother
waters in the deep. It didn't get much smoother.
0330 Stopped engine. Winds
10 - 15 knots SE. Slow going at least we are sailing.
0530 Winds 10 -12 knots SE.
Pushing against a 2 to 2.5 knots current. COG 270. SOG 2 knots, Speed 5.5
knots.
0745 Winds 10 -12 knots SE.
Hoisted Big Bertha the asymmetrical spinnaker. COG 270, SOG 4 knots, Speed 5 to
6 knots.
1000 Winds 6 to 8 knots ESE.
Still flying Big Bertha - just. COG 250, SOG 2.5 knots, Speed 5 knots.
The theory was to sail due
west across the north setting current close to Madagascar and hope to find the
south setting Mozambique current. My thinking that it would be better to cross
the opposing current instead of pushing into it. For most of the day Sadiqi has
been pushing against a 2 to 3 knot north east setting current. The one thing I
had neglected was the strength of the current. I had picked the narrowest part
of the Mozambique Channel. In hindsight I should have pushed further south into
the wider part of the channel before zigzagging west across the currents.
Noon 20-09-12 – Thursday
Time: 12.00L UTC+3.0
Lat: 15 58.73 S
Lon: 044 41.14 E
Log: 7089.4 Nm
COG: 270 Deg M
Winds: 8 to 12 Kts E
Engine: 1055.6 Hrs
Distance covered in the last
24 hours 84.5 Miles
Peri Peri Net - offers
cruisers who log in with them weather reports and good local knowledge. HF 8101
Mhz at 0500 and 1500 hours UTC. There is Roy of "Good News 2" in
Durban, Norman on "Regal" in Bazaruto and Paul of "Northern
Star" in Joburg.
I have not had much success
with getting through to the Sailmail HF Radio Station in Maputo, Mozambique.
The first log was submitted through Brunei, South East Asia. This log will
hopefully be sent through Brunei Bay Radio all of 4,900 miles away.
1300 Wind 4 - 5 knots ESE -
Current setting 2 knots NE. Engine - on pushing against the current westwards. SOG
1.5 knots.
1800 Wind 4 - 5 knots WSW.
In six hours since noon travelled 7 miles! SLOW!
2350 Wind 5 knots SW. Boat
Speed 4.5 knots SOG 1 knot. COG 280 M. Slow going twelve hours motored 18.3
miles. The wind and the current coming from where I wanted to go!
0600 Wind 8 - 10 knots ESE.
Engine off - thankfully. Raised Big Bertha (Asymmetrical Spinnaker) Boat Speed 5 knots SOG 2.5 knots. COG 235 M.
In 18 hours motored 27 miles! This would have to be record for Sadiqi - SLOW!
1000 Wind 5 - 8 knots ENE -
heading pretty much due south. Boat Speed 5 knots SOG 3 knots. COG 190 M.
1100 Wind 5 - 8 knots NE -
decided to gybe. Boat Speed 5 knots SOG 1.5 knots. COG 330 M. At least Sadiqi
is moving, sort of, in the right direction.
Noon 21-09-12 – Friday
Time: 12.00L UTC+3.0
Lat: 16 21.03 S
Lon: 042 41.21 E
Log: 7257.1 Nm
COG: 280 Deg M. Boat Speed 5.5 knots SOG 2.5 knots.
Winds: 6 to 10 Kts NE
Engine: 1072.2 Hrs
Distance covered in the last
24 hours about 34.0 miles with 16.6 engine hours.
1500 Wind 6 - 9 knots NNE -
good sailing with Big Bertha up.
Boat Speed 5.5 knots, SOG
2.2 knots, COG 250 M.
2030 Winds 4 - 6 knots NNE -
Not heading west. I pulled down Big Bertha. It had been fantastic while it
lasted. While pulling the spinnaker down with just the main up the boat drifted
backwards SE at nearly 3 knots! The engine was started, Sadiqi motored sailed
westward. Boat Speed 5.0 knots, SOG 1.2 knots, COG 260 M.
While the currents of the
northern Indian Ocean, at times, left me totally perplexed, the currents of the
Mozambique Channel left me demoralised. With around 9 hours of night Sadiqi
would be lucky to make 9 miles with the engine running. Where the hell is this
south setting Mozambique current?
1630 Wind 8 - 12 knots NNE
Boat Speed 5.5 knots, SOG 3
knots, COG 300 M.
Pushing against SE setting
current 2 knots.
2030 Winds 4 - 6 NNE
Pulled down Big Bertha.
Engine on.
2300 Wind very little all
over the place.
Boat bouncing around - very
rough.
Pulled down all sails.
Heading 270 M, COG 180 M,
SOG 2 knots!
Could not motor west!
0400 Wind 3 - 5 knots NE.
Finally got through strong east setting
current. Motoring.
Boat Speed 4.5 knots, SOG 2
knots, COG 260 M.
0615 Wind 8 - 10 knots ENE.
Sails up and Jib poled out.
Engine off.
Boat Speed 4 knots, SOG 1.5
knots, COG 270 M.
0830 Wind 8 - 12 knots NE.
Big Bertha (MPS) up.
Boat Speed 5.5 knots, SOG
2.5 knots, COG 260 M.
Noon 22-09-12 – Saturday
Time: 12.00L UTC+3.0
Lat: 16 44.70 S
Lon: 042 03.16 E
Log: 7337.9 Nm
COG: 240 Deg M. Boat Speed 6 knots SOG 4.5 knots.
Winds: 10 to 15 Kts NE
Engine: 1082.0 Hrs
Distance covered in the last
24 hours about 43.7 miles with 10 engine hours.
1300 Wind 10 - 14 knots NNE
Dropped Big Bertha.
Boat Speed 5.5 knots, SOG
4.5 knots, COG 240 M.
Making some progress
westward at last.
1500 Wind 12 - 15 knots N
Boat Speed 5.5 knots, SOG
4.5 knots, COG 265 M.
2015 Winds 12 - 18 knots NNE
Reefed the mainsail to first
postion. Furled Jib to first reef position.
Boat Speed 5.5 knots, SOG 5
knots, COG 250 M.
Lat: 16 59.18 S
Lon: 041 26.12 E
2350 Wind 12 - 18 knots NNE.
Bumpy ride in rough and
confused seas.
0530 Wind 10 - 12 knots NNE
Boat Speed 5.0 knots, SOG
4.5 knots, COG 255 M.
Shook out reef in main and
Jib.
0830 Winds 15 - 20 knots
NNE.
Sailing on reefed mainsail
only.
Noon 23-09-12 – Sunday
Time: 12.00L UTC+3.0
Lat: 17 24.96 S
Lon: 040 14.29 E
Log: - Nm
COG: 250 Deg M. Boat Speed 6 knots SOG 5 knots.
Winds: 15 to 22 Kts NNE
Engine: 1082.0 Hrs
Distance covered in the last
24 hours about 111.6 miles.
1800 Winds 14 - 18 knots NE
Rolling along - following
seas to 3 metres.
0400 Winds 18 - 25 NE
Put second reef in mainsail.
Rolling along wildly in steep following seas.
Boat Speed 5.0 knots, SOG 5
knots, COG 260 M.
Ran the engine for a short
time to clear any water that may have been forced up the exhaust by the
following seas.
0830 Winds 14 - 18 knots NNE
Boat Speed 6.0 knots, SOG
6.5 knots, COG 250 M.
Shook out second reef in
mainsail. Swell and seas moderating slightly.
Noon 24-09-12 – Monday
Time: 12.00L UTC+3.0
Lat: 18 17.62 S
Lon: 038 20.87 E
Log: - Nm
COG: 250 Deg M. Boat Speed 6 knots SOG 5 knots.
Winds: 12 to 15 Kts NNE
Engine: 1082.5 Hrs
Barometer 1014 Mb falling
Distance covered in the last
24 hours about 120 miles.
1400 Winds dropping. 10 - 12
knots NE.
1500 Winds 12 - 18 knots E -
Gybed.
Boat Speed 5.0 knots, SOG 6
knots, COG 240 M.
Barometer 1010 Mb falling
2000 +3 Time zone change +2 to
1900 hours
Wind 18 - 20 knots ENE
2 reefs in the mainsail, 1
reef in the jib.
Boat Speed 5.0 knots, SOG 6.5
knots, COG 240 M.
Barometer 1009 Mb steady
2230 Wind 18 - 20 knots ENE
Fast sailing in the
Mozambique Current.
Boat Speed 5.5 knots, SOG
7.5 knots, COG 230 M.
Barometer 1010 Mb rising
0300 Winds 15 - 18 knots ESE
- Beam reach.
Boat Speed 6.0 knots, SOG 9
knots, COG 225 M.
Barometer 1012 Mb rising
0600 Winds 10 - 12 knots SE
- close reach
Boat Speed 5.0 knots, SOG
6.5 knots, COG 230 M.
Barometer 1014 Mb rising
1000 Wind 20 - 25 knots SE.
This was not much fun beating into the south easterly.
1100 Wind 25 - 30 knots SE.
Due east of Beira,
Mozambique. I did not see many ships while crossing the channel. Those
travelling north tended to be close inshore in the counter current.
Noon 25-09-12 – Tuesday
Time: 12.00L UTC+2.0
Lat: 19 56.07 S
Lon: 036 15.15 E
Log: - Nm
COG: 220 Deg M. Boat Speed 5 knots SOG 5.5 knots.
Winds: 25 to 30 Kts SE
Engine: 1082.5 Hrs
Barometer 1018 Mb rising -
thank goodness.
Distance covered in the last
24 hours about 154 miles.
I spotted several large whales
- I think they were Humpbacks. Sometimes I would see an almighty splash, then
see, what I can only assume to be a very large pectoral fin protrude from the
water as the whale rolled over on it's back.
The seas and swell would on
average have been about 2 to 3 meters. The seas were confused with waves coming
from different directions, compounded with wind against current creating steep
short wave length waves. Frequently a set of larger waves would appear 6 to 8
metres in height, by my reckoning anyway. Sadiqi would start to climb the waves
and if there was any white on the top indicative of the wave breaking the
skipper, who was helming most of the time, would mutter "Oh Shit!" or
words to that effect. Sadiqi would fall off the back of the wave with big bang,
splash and spray as she hit the trough.
1800 Winds 25 - 30 knots SE.
Pounding into big swells and
confused seas.
2 reefs in the mainsail and
2 reefs in the jib.
Boat Speed 4.5 knots, SOG 5.5
knots, COG 220 M.
2330 Winds 20 - 25 knots SE
- looks to be easing slightly.
Fore cabin is very wet with
leaking fore hatch. The swamp!
0200 Winds 15 - 20 knots SE
unfurled the second reef in
the main. Fully unfurled the jib.
Boat Speed 4.5 knots, SOG
5.5 knots, COG 220 M.
0500 Winds 12 - 18 knots ESE
Slow going again - out of
the Mozambique current.
0830 Winds 8 - 10 knots ESE
Ironic had to start the
engine to make landfall during the day.
Noon 26-09-12 – Wednesday
1200 Entered the Bazaruto
Archipelago, Mozambique.
Motor sailing
Wind 5 - 8 knots ESE.
