Navigating the channel south
past Bazaruto island to Benguerra island. This was a fast, pleasant sail with the current and wind, with GPS speed
over ground of up to 9 knots. The
entrance to the anchorage at Benguerra island should only be approached on a
rising tide during the day. Navigate the channel carefully the bottom is hard
sand in most places.
1445 Arrived Benguerra island
- near the Benguerra Lodge Resort.
Engine 1090.9.
Winds 12 to 16 knots NE.
There were several catamaran
yachts and power boats anchored near the beach. The anchorage was very shallow 2.5
metres at high tide and quite rough.
A motor boat headed in my
direction before I had finished anchoring and demanded my paper work. I thought
they wanted to see the receipt for the national park. No, they wanted the boat
papers. This was something I had not expected as I had not planned on clearing
into Mozambique having heard it was complex and expensive. They came along side
in the choppy waves. The boats touched with a loud crack and Sadiqi's teak
rubbing strake was damaged toward the stern. This pissed me off, being just a
little tired after 7 days at sea. I pushed their boat away, collected my
thoughts and finished securing Sadiqi with the other boat hovering. This is
Africa (TIA). I retrieved my paper work and climbed into my dingy, which was
tied to the stern, not wanting them near Sadiqi again. I managed to clamber
onto their boat. I attempted to attune my attitude and shook hands and smiled.
The officious individual glared at me and demanded the boat papers. Fortunately
the driver of the boat. Sebastian, who speaks better English than he appears to
know about driving a boat assisted. I tried to say that I was only here for a few
days to rest and to take refuge from the weather before heading to South Africa.
Another dingy came over to the Customs boat with Barry from South Africa
onboard. The upshot was I had to pay US$55.00 for a months visa in Mozambique.
I was informed later that this was the first time that Customs had been out to Benguerra
island to check boat papers - just my luck. I'll have to find some forehead
"SUCKER" sticker remover when I get to South Africa! I always seem to
cop all these fees and baksheesh - well I admit to it anyway.
Barry on "Dream
Catcher" advised me where I could
find deeper water in which to anchor. Spring tides were approaching with a
range of 4 metres. He said that his catamaran would be dry at low tide. One of
the many advantages of a catamaran.
I re-anchored in a large
hole near some white buoys in 7 metres of water at low tide.
Lat: 21 51.13 S
Lon: 035 25.2 E
 |
| Fisherman |
Benguerra Island is dotted
with quite a few very expensive and upmarket resorts. The Benguerra Lodge
Resort seems to the be the most yachtie friendly.
Friday, September 28. The
forecast was for 20 to 25 knots north easterlies. I spoke to Barry and he
suggested that it should be ok on the lee shore as long as it did not go much
over 25 knots. I confess this has not been one of the better anchorages I have
been in. At high tide Sadiqi was exposed to the wind and seas. There were not
many alternatives. At low tide there is no problem as Sadiqi was parked in a
hole with drying sand nearly all around and quite safe regardless of the wind. The
wind eased over night much to my relief. These sort of conditions don't make
for a good nights sleep.
The following day, Saturday,
the forecast was for strong south east winds up to 35 knots. The early morning
was quite pleasant with 10 to 12 knot north easterlies. By midday the wind
started to swing to the south east - off shore. Not long after that it was
howling 25 to 30 knots. The wind was screaming through the rigging a short time
later up to 35 knots. At high tide the fetch was about a kilometre to the shore
making for bumpy ride at anchor. At low tide the fetch was less that 50 metres.
If this is what I have to look forward to heading south then I'll make every
effort to avoid these sort of weather conditions.
Sunday morning the winds were
still southerly at 15 to 20 knots. Fortunately the barometer was rising 1020. The
forecast was for the south easterlies to ease over the next few days. Listening
to Peri Peri net I was advised that if I wanted to head south then there looked
to be a good 5 day window before the next low pressure system zoomed up the
east coast of South Africa.
