Vilanculos, Mozambique

Vilanculos

Lat: 21 57.87S

Lon 035 19.22E

Tuesday, October 2 - headed to Vilanculos on the mainland to get some supplies. I followed Tammy on the catamaran "Maximilian" who helped guide Sadiqi over the shallows to the anchorage - there are a lot of sand banks and shallows. I actually thought that I was checked in -  alas not. It would appear the Department of Transport feels the need to charge a fee to visit the country.

I anchored in front of a resort Aguia Negra and Big Blue fishing charters. I spoke to Dwight and Miguel of Big Blue about leaving the dingy in front of the red roofed facility. There are boat boys who will be more than happy to look after the dingy. The going rate is around 20 to 100 mets depending on duration. The guys at Big Blue kept an eye on my dingy. If it is a heavy dingy then it would be worth while getting a boat boy as they will move it with the tides. Dealing with the shore break in the dingy in the afternoons usually meant a wet trip.

Big Blue at the Red roofs

Stepping ashore was quite surreal realising that I had crossed an ocean by boat, having left Fremantle, Western Australia in 2010 and arrived in Mozambique, Africa in 2012. Vilanculos was interesting, quite tidy with many tourists and expats - mainly South African.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mozambique

Currency in Mozambique: metical (MZM) or just called mets.

Exchange rate approximately 30 mets to 1 Aussie dollar.

I managed to get a lift to the shops and market with the Tammy and her partner Paul . The good thing about the supermarket was that I could understand and recognise the products as they were in English and some of the brands familiar from South Africa. Most of the people in the town speak good English I was able to draw money from the ATM machine. After visiting the supermarket we went to The Kilimanjaro restaurant for lunch and later in the day visited the  infamous, apparently, Smugglers Sports Bay for a beer.

The Anchorage from Big Blue

 Other yachts and people that I met up with while in the Bazaruto Archipelago:

"Dream Catcher" with Barry, Tina and family.

"Maximilian" with Paul and Tammy.

"Regal" Norman from Peri Peri net.

The hospitality around the Bazaruto archipelago and Vilanculos was so friendly. I met up with Moyra, whom had gone to the same junior school as I had. A few very pleasant lunches were had - good food, good company and good beer. I was sad to leave.

On Friday morning , October 5, on the high tide, I motored back to Benguerra Island to wait for the time to exit through the Two Mile Reef Channel between Bazaruto and Benguerra islands. The weather seems to have held out with winds from the north east.

Getting to the sea in the channel between Bengwera island and Bazaruto island.

Two Mile Reef Gap. North of Bengwera Island. Beware of the sand bar. Exit the channel on a rising tide - 2 hours before high tide. Do not attempt crossing the sand bar on a falling/out going tide. Head 8 miles due east due to unmarked Two Mile Reef.

Benguerra Island

Navigating the channel south past Bazaruto island to Benguerra island. This was a fast, pleasant  sail with the current and wind, with GPS speed over ground of up to 9 knots.  The entrance to the anchorage at Benguerra island should only be approached on a rising tide during the day. Navigate the channel carefully the bottom is hard sand in most places.

1445 Arrived Benguerra island - near the Benguerra Lodge Resort.

Engine 1090.9.

Winds 12 to 16 knots NE.

There were several catamaran yachts and power boats anchored near the beach. The anchorage was very shallow 2.5 metres at high tide and quite rough.

A motor boat headed in my direction before I had finished anchoring and demanded my paper work. I thought they wanted to see the receipt for the national park. No, they wanted the boat papers. This was something I had not expected as I had not planned on clearing into Mozambique having heard it was complex and expensive. They came along side in the choppy waves. The boats touched with a loud crack and Sadiqi's teak rubbing strake was damaged toward the stern. This pissed me off, being just a little tired after 7 days at sea. I pushed their boat away, collected my thoughts and finished securing Sadiqi with the other boat hovering. This is Africa (TIA). I retrieved my paper work and climbed into my dingy, which was tied to the stern, not wanting them near Sadiqi again. I managed to clamber onto their boat. I attempted to attune my attitude and shook hands and smiled. The officious individual glared at me and demanded the boat papers. Fortunately the driver of the boat. Sebastian, who speaks better English than he appears to know about driving a boat assisted. I tried to say that I was only here for a few days to rest and to take refuge from the weather before heading to South Africa. Another dingy came over to the Customs boat with Barry from South Africa onboard. The upshot was I had to pay US$55.00 for a months visa in Mozambique. I was informed later that this was the first time that Customs had been out to Benguerra island to check boat papers - just my luck. I'll have to find some forehead "SUCKER" sticker remover when I get to South Africa! I always seem to cop all these fees and baksheesh - well I admit to it anyway.

Barry on "Dream Catcher" advised me where I  could find deeper water in which to anchor. Spring tides were approaching with a range of 4 metres. He said that his catamaran would be dry at low tide. One of the many advantages of a catamaran.

I re-anchored in a large hole near some white buoys in 7 metres of water at low tide.

Lat: 21 51.13 S

Lon: 035 25.2 E

Fisherman

 Benguerra Island is dotted with quite a few very expensive and upmarket resorts. The Benguerra Lodge Resort seems to the be the most yachtie friendly.

Friday, September 28. The forecast was for 20 to 25 knots north easterlies. I spoke to Barry and he suggested that it should be ok on the lee shore as long as it did not go much over 25 knots. I confess this has not been one of the better anchorages I have been in. At high tide Sadiqi was exposed to the wind and seas. There were not many alternatives. At low tide there is no problem as Sadiqi was parked in a hole with drying sand nearly all around and quite safe regardless of the wind. The wind eased over night much to my relief. These sort of conditions don't make for a good nights sleep.

The following day, Saturday, the forecast was for strong south east winds up to 35 knots. The early morning was quite pleasant with 10 to 12 knot north easterlies. By midday the wind started to swing to the south east - off shore. Not long after that it was howling 25 to 30 knots. The wind was screaming through the rigging a short time later up to 35 knots. At high tide the fetch was about a kilometre to the shore making for bumpy ride at anchor. At low tide the fetch was less that 50 metres. If this is what I have to look forward to heading south then I'll make every effort to avoid these sort of weather conditions.  

Sunday morning the winds were still southerly at 15 to 20 knots. Fortunately the barometer was rising 1020. The forecast was for the south easterlies to ease over the next few days. Listening to Peri Peri net I was advised that if I wanted to head south then there looked to be a good 5 day window before the next low pressure system zoomed up the east coast of South Africa.