Tuesday 21 August 2018

Vanuatu


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vanuatu

http://www.noonsite.com/Countries/Vanuatu

http://www.vanuatucruising.info


Port Vila, Vanuatu

 I left Port Vila on Tuesday, August 28 to sail south to Tanna island. An opportunity presented itself with a few days with winds from the north. The prevailing south easterly trade winds usually inhibit sailing into it. I keep being reminded that gentlemen do not sail to windward. It was a slow bumpy voyage in confused seas. I wanted to arrive in the north facing Port Resolution bay in daylight after the wind had swung coming from the south. It’s all in the timing. In the early morning, some 20 miles out, I could see the red glow of the volcano reflected on the clouds. Sadiqi arrived at Port Resolution on Tanna on Thursday morning. I joined several other cruisers for an evening tour of the volcano. The tour is a tad pricey at over USD $100. Still, It was an awesome experience gazing from the rim of the volcano into the caldera. The volcano gave out several impressive seismic belches, shooting large lumps of red hot lava high into the air. I think I had a brief glimpse into Hell, with all the fire and brimstone.

Volcanic sky show!
 



One night the upper level winds must have swung to the west. The boat was liberally coated with gritty volcanic ash in the morning.

The village of Port Resolution is quite primitive. The people are friendly and multi lingual. There were few cars in the village. There seemed to only be one fibreglass fishing boat with outboard engine in the bay. Fishermen on dugout outrigger canoes came out to the yachts to exchange fruit and vegetables for items like batteries and electrical wires. I left a soccer ball, pads, pencils and marbles to be distributed at the school. 
The Volcano Bar, White Beach near Port Resolution


Port Resolution anchorage
I waited for 15 knot  south easterly winds for the return trip to Vila. I knew I would be sailing against a half knot current in places. It was another bumpy sail at times in confused seas. Sadiqi did the 140 mile voyage in a little over 28 hours.
 
Cruise ships arrived at Port Vila on a daily basis. I felt the need to find somewhere quieter and less expensive. I motor sailed around to Esema Bay, Havana Harbour to the north west of Efate. Sadiqi had the pleasure of a playful dolphin escort in Havana Harbour.
Dolphin escort

As I approached Esema Bay I could see a large yacht laying on its side. It transpired that  “Blue Gold” the 130 foot schooner had been a victim of cyclone Pam in 2015. The anchorage at Esema bay was delightful with friendly locals. One morning I saw the water spout of a whale. A humpback whale and her calf basked in the shallow waters near by for several hours.
Some of the yachts that visited Esema Bay while Sadiqi was there:
Peter on Tamariki from New Zealand,
Art and Nancie on Second Wind from USA,
Martin and Angela on Katie M II from Canada.

Havana harbour

An out of season cyclone Luia put in a brief appearance in the Solomon Island in late September. Not long after that I headed back to Port Vila to prepare for chasing sunsets again. The fate of the large schooner Blue Gold being more than sufficient incentive for not wanting to be anywhere near any cyclone.
Up the mast checking Sadiqi's rigging