Vanuatu

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vanuatu

http://www.noonsite.com/Countries/Vanuatu

http://www.vanuatucruising.info

Port Vila, Vanuatu

 I left Port Vila on Tuesday, August 28 to sail south to Tanna island. An opportunity presented itself with a few days with winds from the north. The prevailing south easterly trade winds usually inhibit sailing into it. I keep being reminded that gentlemen do not sail to windward. It was a slow bumpy voyage in confused seas. I wanted to arrive in the north facing Port Resolution bay in daylight after the wind had swung coming from the south. It’s all in the timing. In the early morning, some 20 miles out, I could see the red glow of the volcano reflected on the clouds. Sadiqi arrived at Port Resolution on Tanna on Thursday morning. I joined several other cruisers for an evening tour of the volcano. The tour is a tad pricey at over USD $100. Still, It was an awesome experience gazing from the rim of the volcano into the caldera. The volcano gave out several impressive seismic belches, shooting large lumps of red hot lava high into the air. I think I had a brief glimpse into Hell, with all the fire and brimstone.

Volcanic sky show!

 

One night the upper level winds must have swung to the west. The boat was liberally coated with gritty volcanic ash in the morning.

The village of Port Resolution is quite primitive. The people are friendly and multi lingual. There were few cars in the village. There seemed to only be one fibreglass fishing boat with outboard engine in the bay. Fishermen on dugout outrigger canoes came out to the yachts to exchange fruit and vegetables for items like batteries and electrical wires. I left a soccer ball, pads, pencils and marbles to be distributed at the school. 

The Volcano Bar, White Beach near Port Resolution

Port Resolution anchorage

I waited for 15 knot  south easterly winds for the return trip to Vila. I knew I would be sailing against a half knot current in places. It was another bumpy sail at times in confused seas. Sadiqi did the 140 mile voyage in a little over 28 hours.
 
Cruise ships arrived at Port Vila on a daily basis. I felt the need to find somewhere quieter and less expensive. I motor sailed around to Esema Bay, Havana Harbour to the north west of Efate. Sadiqi had the pleasure of a playful dolphin escort in Havana Harbour.

Dolphin escort

As I approached Esema Bay I could see a large yacht laying on its side. It transpired that  “Blue Gold” the 130 foot schooner had been a victim of cyclone Pam in 2015. The anchorage at Esema bay was delightful with friendly locals. One morning I saw the water spout of a whale. A humpback whale and her calf basked in the shallow waters near by for several hours.
Some of the yachts that visited Esema Bay while Sadiqi was there:
Peter on Tamariki from New Zealand,
Art and Nancie on Second Wind from USA,
Martin and Angela on Katie M II from Canada.

Havana harbour

An out of season cyclone Luia put in a brief appearance in the Solomon Island in late September. Not long after that I headed back to Port Vila to prepare for chasing sunsets again. The fate of the large schooner Blue Gold being more than sufficient incentive for not wanting to be anywhere near any cyclone.

Up the mast checking Sadiqi's rigging

Fiji To Vanuatu

Good bye Fiji

Wednesday, August 16 at Port Denarau I did all the clearance requirements. I had hoped to leave before midday the same day. However, the officials only arrived after midday. I prepared Sadiqi for an early start the following morning - packing up the dinghy, awnings and stowing Roxy the anchor. I did not want to risk going through the pass in the reefs at mid afternoon when the winds where at their strongest. I’d done this twice before and it was not a pleasant experience.

Sadiqi departed the Port Denarau anchorage at 0700 and exited the Wilkes pass, near Namoto island, at 0940. We were flushed out doing 7 knots with the outgoing tide. Third time lucky – the exit through the pass was relatively easy.

Namotu Island

The first 24 hours of the passage were rough from the confused seas in the lee of the Fiji Islands. The wind was a fairly steady 18 to 22 knots east south east. It was brisk broad reach sailing with full main and headsail.

On Saturday night the  wind steadily decreased, by sunrise it was 10-12 knots ESE. It was very pleasant trade wind sailing. Big Bertha the asymmetrical spinnaker was hoisted. The seas were flat enough that Sadiqi ghosted along at a respectable 4 knots in less than 10 knot SE wind - blisFiji To Vanuatusful sailing. There was also a favourable current. In the evening the winds dropped below 10 knots. I ran the engine until just before midnight when the wind picked up to 10 knots. Not much but enough to maintain 4 knots speed over the ground.

On Sunday morning I hoisted Big Bertha again. The Wind was 8 to 10 knots ESE. Sadiqi ghosted along at nearly 4 knots.
The wind decreased during the afternoon. I attempted to keep what little wind there was on the beam. It was slow progress westward.
Slow pleasant sailing overnight with mainsail only. Winds 8 to 10 knots E, boat speed 2 knots.

Sailing into the sunset with Big Bertha.

On Monday the engine rattled away again to make progress in light winds, against a half knot current
Monday night proved challenging as a frontal system

was heading eastwards. I had seen this forecast system so prepared for it. A prodigious amount of rain fell before the front passed. Smithy the windvane slowly steered Sadiqi south as the winds shifted and increased from north, through west to the south. At around 0200 Tuesday I tacked to head back to Port Vila, Vanuatu.

I dropped anchor at the Port Vila, Vanuatu quarantine buoy and 0800 (UTC +11 hours). The customs and Biosecurity soon arrived by boat and cleared Sadiqi in. All vegetables and fresh food was confiscated by Biosecurity.

I contacted Yachting World marina on the availability of a mooring. There was none available. I was offered instead a berth in the marina. Sadiqi was soon tied stern to the wall by the friendly efficient Yachting World staff; Moses, Timmo and Willie. I can’t say I felt at all comfortable tied up alongside some large very expensive yachts. It was like being in a fish bowl with all the people walking past. Access to Sadiqi was walking a shaky plank - not ideal. I slept heavily not having had much sleep the night before nearing the coast and with the storm conditions. The following day several mooring became available and I was relieved to be moved onto one. 

Yachting World Berth. Sadiqi dwarfed by her neighbour.