New Zealand to Fiji 2018

Sunday May 20 

At 1200 Sadiqi cleared NZ customs and departed Marsden Cove Marina.
Engine: 2265.4 hours
The winds off Whangarei Heads were 12 to 15 knots NNW.
Near the Poor Knights islands Sadiqi had a brief dolphin escort.

Monday May 21 (Day 1)

Sadiqi rolled along very nicely on a beam reach with 18 to 20  knot winds from the west.
Air temperature between 18 and 20 degrees C. This was a big change from the previous NZ departure that had icy cold southerly winds.
By noon we’d (the boat and I) sailed 106 miles since departing Marsden Cove.
Position: 34 11.33 S  174 54.70 E

Tuesday May 22 (Day 2)

It was a boisterous beam reach sail in 20 to 30 knot winds from the west.
The swell of 5 to 6 metres was predominantly from the south west.
By noon we’d sailed 111 miles since the previous noon.
Position: 32 24.74 S  175 30.63 E

Wednesday May 23 (Day 3)

It was a wet, boisterous beam reach sail in 20 to 30 knot winds from the west.
The swell at times was over 7 metres from the south west.
By noon we’d sailed 127 miles since the previous noon.
Air temperature 21 degrees C.
Position: 30 29.20 S  176 33.23 E
At 1835 hours Sadiqi crossed the 30th parallel. Shortly after; the cross track error alarm sounded, he waxing half moon appeared from behind the clouds and the wind had dropped 5 knots from the south. I reset ‘Smithy’ the windvane and sailed through the night with equivalent of a doubled reefed mainsail.

Thursday May 24 (Day 4)

Sadiqi was rolling along in big seas (6 metres) and lighter 12 to 16  knot southerly winds.
By noon we’d sailed 111 miles since the previous noon.
Position: 28 43.67 S  177 13.37 E

                                                                    Big Swell

Friday May 25 (Day 5)

Sadiqi was motoring with almost no wind from anywhere particular in 5 metre swells.
It was and opportunity to pour 20 litres of diesel into the tank.
By noon we’d motored 98 miles since the previous noon.
Position: 27 22.54 S  178 17.12 E
Air temperature was 25 degrees C.

At 1735 hours the wind increased to 10 knots and swung from the north west.
The engine was turned off and we were sailing again at around 4 knots.

Saturday May 26 (Day 6)

It was an easy night with two Vanuatu registered Chinese fishing boats about to keep the skipper vigilant.
The winds increased in the morning to 20 knots from the south west.
By noon we’d sailed 119 miles since the previous noon.
Position: 25 40.17 S  179 24.60 E

Sunday May 27 (Day 7)

Winds swinging from the south - decreasing.
At 0525 hours Sadiqi crossed the dateline (180 degrees east) into yesterday. The clocks weren't changed.
By noon we’d sailed/motored 105 miles since the previous noon.
Position: 24 11.00 S  179 37.18 W
We were 50 miles from North Minerva Reef. I shortened sail to slow down to arrive early Monday morning in daylight.

Monday May 28 (Day 8)

Overnight Sadiqi drifted in the vicinity of the Minerva Reefs waiting for daylight to make the pass into the lagoon. The winds were light less than 10 knots, skies overcast and rain drizzled.

At 0815 hours the anchor was dropped in 12 metres of crystal clear water at North Minerva Reef.
Engine: 2303.7 hours.
Position: 23 39.66 S  178 54.60 W

Anchored in the shelter of the Reef

There were 8 yachts anchored near the prestigious North Minerva Reef Yacht Club. Membership to the yacht club is granted by being there and is revoked on departure. The skipper needed sleep to restore his sense of humour before attempting to be sociable.

The Minerva Reefs are just that – reef, apparently, disputed territory between Fiji and Tonga. The North Minerva Reef lies just to the north of the Tropic of Capricorn, the lagoon is 2 miles across and rises some 2,000 metres from the ocean floor. There are no sandy beaches, no palm trees or any other vegetation. The sound of the waves breaking on the outer reef roar across from the sheltered anchorage.

North Minerva Reef

I had thought that I would not have to deal with any authorities at Minerva – me being a recalcitrant solo cruiser. A Tongan navy patrol boat arrived in the anchorage and attempted to evict the remaining five yachts. One of the yachts appeared to have connections with the Tongan monarchy and persuaded the patrol boat to go play elsewhere. Apparently, the patrol boat sailed for South Minerva Reef and claimed it for training exercises. I had an amusing thought the war against terror may be being extended to include the Crown of Thorns starfish. Why else would one want to bomb and shoot up a beautiful lagoon of harmless fish.

 
I had planned to leave on Saturday. The forecast grib files downloaded via SSB radio did not show favourable conditions with winds from the north east. However, the forecast was incorrect with much stronger winds than predicted and from the direction that Sadiqi intended to sail. By late afternoon Saturday there were some 20 yachts sheltering in North Minerva lagoon. Many of these boats were participating in a rally to Tonga.

The lagoon

Art and Nancie on Second Wind very kindly unpacked their dinghy. They offered to take Dave, Wendy on Elysium and myself to explore the reef. The lagoon itself varies between 10 to 25 metres in depth with most of the coral bommies near the reef edge. The waters were crystal clear. We were able to sample natures bounty when several large tropical crayfish were dropped off on Second Wind by a friendly fisherman. These were shared on board Elysium. A few days later more crayfish were shared on board Katie M II with; Martin, Angela and Kylie, along with Lester and Lisa from Obsession.

North Minerva flat calm

On Sunday June 3 there were over 30 yachts in the Minerva lagoon. The south western pacific weather was proving a challenge. The skies were overcast and winds light from the north. Yachts trickled out of the Minerva lagoon on Monday and Tuesday to motor or motor-sail to Tonga, Fiji or Vanuatu. Sadiqi chose to stay at Minerva not having enough fuel to motor, let alone having to listen to the engine rattling away, for 4 days. By mid Tuesday there were less than 10 yachts in the lagoon. I was probably the longest serving member of the North Minerva Yacht Club for that short period.

Thursday June 7 (Day 18)

The previous day I had spent time with:
Michael and Caroline on Golden Spirit.
David and Susan on Enchantress.

0745 hours Sadiqi departed the North Minerva Lagoon. Winds were less than 10 knots from the east. The swell about 1 metre. Only 3 yachts remained in the lagoon. The weather forecast was not ideal with light winds to start then stronger winds after several days.

By noon we’d motored 14 miles since leaving Minerva.
Position: 23 22.80 S  178 55.01 E
Generally the weather was grey, wet and looked to remain that way for the next 3 days.

By 1830 hours the winds picked up to 15 knot from the south south east. I stopped the engine and we were happily sailing again. Blissful quiet - the water trickling past the hull with the low hum of the wind in the rigging.

Friday June 8 (Day 19)

At dark o clock - 0200 hours the sails were banging and motion lousy. The winds had become negligible - again. On went the engine. I had planned on maintaining a speed of 4 knots to get east and ahead of several nasty low pressure systems south of Fiji on Saturday.

At 0600 hours the engine was turned off - with relief. The winds were 10 to 12 knots from SSE. I was very happy with the new mainsail – it worked well.

By noon we’d sailed/motored 102 miles since the previous noon.
Position: 21 41.01 S  178 53.36 W

Saturday June 9 (Day 20)

Great sailing overnight in 15 knot winds from ENE. There was sunshine and blue skies for the first time in about 6 days.

By noon we’d sailed 118 miles since the previous noon.
Position: 19 43.07 S  179 06.59 W
Air temperature 26 degrees C.

Sunday June 10 (Day 21)

The winds and seas were diminishing. It as a reasonable overnight sail until 0330 hours when the winds became negligible again. The seas were sloppy and confused. I started the engine – again.

By noon we’d motored 95 miles since the previous noon.
Position: 18 17.11 S  179 49.47 W

Monday June 11 (Day 22)

The motor rattled on day and night. I managed to motor sail some of the time with the less than 10 knot northerly winds.

At 1217 hours Sadiqi arrived at the Copra Shed quarantine dock in Savusavu, Fiji.
A forest of paper work was filled in and I was given clearance to disembark.
The total engine hours from New Zealand was a staggering 93 hours!

Savusavu, Fiji