Australia 2018/2019

 

Up the creek in Bundaberg

After an expensive week in Port Bundaberg Marina Sadiqi motored up the Burnett river on the flood tide to Bundaberg. Anchored up the creek in Bundaberg I hauled myself up the mast to take down the Windex - wind indicator. Sailing from Vanuatu a large boobie/gannet managed to land on the top of the mast. The wind may have been 5 knots on the beam in flat seas at the time. The consequence was a broken Windex. At the time some vitriol may have been expressed toward the bird and probably it’s parentage. However, it turned out to be fortuitous. While up the mast I noticed a crack in a stainless steel tang on the starboard lower shrouds.

Cracked Tang

After phoning around, to find ways to remove the mast it was suggested I go to Mooloolaba. I found a boat yard that could remove the mast and where I could work on it at reasonable cost. There's a marina next door where I could live on the boat. With Sadiqi being on the small side I managed to book a marina berth. In the mean time I strapped the cracked tang with dyneema for the voyage further south.

The temporary fix

The transit of the Great Sandy Strait was interesting if not a little stressful. On approaching the first anchorage on the Hervey Bay side of the strait the black clouds, thunder and lightning were ominous. The small anchorage looked crowded, what I saw of it, before it disappeared in  torrential rain. Thoroughly drenched I managed to find a reasonably sheltered anchor just nearby without navigating by braille. The next day I worked the tides. Sadiqi has a dink, not a donk, all 18 aged horses of it. Around the middle of the Strait the tides ebb north and south. This bit can only be traversed, in a displacement boat, on a flood tide. What I had not accounted for was a strong 25 to 30 knot SW breeze. Sadiqi's dink tried pushing into it. I used the headsail where I could in the narrow channel. Once over the hump Sadiqi was flushed southwards with the ebbing tide. I anchored near other boats in Wide Bay Harbour. All the boats left to cross the bar the following morning. I chose to stay for another night and get a feel for the conditions on the bar. I don’t take crossing river bars lightly. The conditions crossing the Wide Bay bar at the southern end of Fraser Island was reasonably benign. The potentially nasty bar bouncers had that day off.

Twilight Wide Bay Harbour

I arrived in Mooloolaba after a deliberately slow over night sail - a distance of 50 miles. At the beginning of March I organised to to take the mast off Sadiqi. Laurie’s Boat yard has a travel lift with suitable crane to remove the mast. I stripped almost everything off the mast and had it repainted. The standing rigging was replaced by Quin Rig. After I replaced all the halyards, wiring, bits and pieces the shiny mast was re-stepped. I should have picked a cooler time of year as at times the tropical heat was intense.

Mast ready to be disassembled

Disassembled

Painted spinnaker poles

Painted Mast

Assembled mast

I had done what I came to the marina to do and was looking forward to going sailing again.

Shiny refurbished mast

Mid March Sadiqi departed Mooloolaba and headed south to Brisbane. Mooloolaba is a great location, however it takes a day to get anywhere by sailboat. I dropped anchor at Sandy Hills toward the southern end of Moreton Island. I enjoyed several days at anchor.

Sunset over Brisbane

I woke before sun up on the morning of departure and noticed flames on a yacht nearby. I turned on the VHF radio to listen of any distress calls. Someone was either having a very early breakfast BBQ of had seriously burnt the toast. After awhile I heard a call to the Coastguard about the fire. It wasn't the first call. By this time the back end of the sailboat was well alight. What surprised me was that there seemed to be very little attempt or effort to put the fire out. I could see 2 dinghies tied behind another boat with people watching. After a few hours 2 police boats and the coastguard turned up. By this time the boat had flames the length of the deck with dense black smoke. The mast eventually collapsed. A helicopter turned up I'm guessing with a news crew. That flew around for about half an hour. The police eventually extinguished the flames.

Yacht fire

After all that excitement I pulled up the anchor and headed to the marina. Sadiqi spent nearly a month in East Coast Marina while the skipper sorted out various stuff.

Vanuatu to Australia

Entry to Australia by boat requires advanced notification of at least 96 hours before arrival. I’d sent off an email notification that Sadiqi planned to arrive at 1000am on October 25.
Peter on Tamariki and I had chosen to depart Vanuatu on Saturday. Good 12 to 15 knot easterly winds were forecast.
Clearing out of Vanuatu was an easy and hassle free experience the day before. I said my goodbyes to Lemara and the crew at Yachting World Marina.

Saturday October 13.

0930 I released the Yachting World mooring buoy.

Noon 1200 UTC +11 hours
Pos: 17 45.71 S   168 05.58 E
COG: 250 deg M  SOG: 6 knots
Wind 15 - 18 knots ESE
Engine: 2430.4 hours
12.5 miles since leaving Port Vila.
Wonderful broad reach, trade wind sailing.

Chasing the sunset

Sunday October 14. (Day 1)

It was a bumpy overnight sail with easterly winds increasing 18 – 25 knots.

Noon 1200 UTC +11 hours
Pos: 18 01.46 S   165 56.23 E
COG: 249 deg M SOG: 5 knots
Wind 18 - 20 knots E
Engine: 2430.4 hours
124 miles since noon the previous day.
Rolling along on lumpy seas. Tamariki visible on AIS three miles south of Sadiqi.

I’m learning that it’s far better to sail westwards chasing sunsets than looking for penguins or polar bears.

Monday October 15 (Day 2)

Another bumpy overnight sail, downwind with mainsail only. At first light I was nearly tossed out of my bunk when Sadiqi broached going down a wave as winds gusted to 30 knots. It was a grey day. I ran the engine to charge the batteries. Most of the time the solar panels recharge the boat’s batteries.

Noon 1200 UTC +11 hours
Pos: 18 01.46 S   165 56.23 E
COG: 249 deg M SOG: 5 knots
Wind 18 - 20 knots E
Engine: 2430.4 hours
127 miles since noon the previous day.

Sadiqi entered the Grand Passage of the D’Entrecasteaux Reefs.

Tuesday October 16 (Day 3)

It was a pleasant downwind sail overnight with mainsail only.

Noon 1200 UTC +11 hours
Pos: 19 11.72 S   161 41.11 E
COG: 240 deg M SOG: 5 knots
Wind 15 - 20 knots NE
Engine: 2431.5 hours
125 miles since noon the previous day.
I changed the chart plotter C-Map cartridge to Australia – last used 8 years ago.

Wednesday October 17 (Day 4)

A challenging overnight sail. By the evening  the wind had swung further from the north, decreasing. I had poled out the jib and the preventer was holding out the mainsail. At around midnight I was awakened by the strange motion. The night was pitch black with the occasional flash of lightning and rumble of thunder. The sails were backed as the wind must have suddenly swung coming from the south west. Smithy, the windvane did not adjust to the sudden change in wind direction. Sadiqi was being pushed backwards toward Vanuatu! I furled the headsail and set the boat so she was heading west. The wind increased and a prodigious amount of rain began to fall. I had to keep adjusting the mainsail and the windvane as the wind swung through south toward the east. The skipper had a much needed rain water wash. The wind decreased to less than 12 knots and the sea state was lousy. I started the engine to steer the boat westward. At around 0400 am Tamariki popped up on the AIS about 5 miles north of Sadiqi. Peter had hove to overnight with triple reefed main. Tamariki is a wooden 45’ ketch. I eventually slept with the engine hammering away.

Noon 1200 UTC +11 hours
Pos: 19 31.40 S   160 16.41 E
COG: 250 deg M SOG: 4 knots
Wind zero knots from anywhere
Engine: 2441.4 hours
82 miles since noon the previous day.
The engine hammered away.

By mid afternoon the wind had increased to 10 knots from the south east. It was a relief to turn the engine off.

Thursday October 18 (Day 5)

A very pleasant overnight sail.
Winds 8 – 10 knots SE – just aft the beam. Just after sun rise I raised Big Bertha the asymmetrical spinnaker. Sadiqi slipped through the calm seas doing 5.5 knots – very pleasant sailing.

1215 I anchored near Les 3 Ilots Du Mouillage, Chesterfield Reef.
Pos: 19 52.94 S   158 27.91 E
Engine: 2451.0 hours
The water had the colour and clarity of Bombay Sapphire Gin. I swam on the anchor and checked for coral bommies. I had anchored in 5 metres away from any coral. I swam ashore with fins and snorkel. The coral was alive with vibrant colours. The small islands were teaming with bird life. The birds; boobies, ganetts, terns and frigate birds to name a few were unafraid and looked mildly curious. Alas, it is not often that one can experience such a natural pristine environment. 

Sapphire water. Les 3 Ilots Du Mouillage, Chesterfield Reef

https://mer-de-corail.gouv.nc/en

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_Park_of_the_Coral_Sea

I had asked the New Caledonia authorities for permission to stop over at the reefs some 6 weeks before. I had not been granted permission, however I had not been declined. I took advantage of an opportunity to stop at Chesterfield Reef. The Volvo engine had developed leaks in the salt water cooling system and the fuel system. The skipper needed a good rest. Smithy the windvane was also being temperamental. I had an idea that gritty volcanic ash from Tanna may be causing some understandable irritation. I went about making repairs on the engine, disassembling and reassembling Smithy. Peter’s crew Kristina had never sailed before. The stop over gave her a chance to recover from seasickness. 

 

Cute chick

Friday October 19 (Day 6)

The skipper had an excellent nights sleep. At midday Peter on Tamariki called on the radio that he had anchored in a more sheltered spot further south. I hauled anchor and motored four miles to Ilot Loop. I dropped anchor in 2 metres of sapphire clear water on a sandy bottom.
Pos: 19 57.75 S  158 28.53 E

vibrant coloured coral

Amazing coral gardens

Sadiqi's bottom

Saturday October 20 (Day 7)

Sadly it was time to leave. I did not want to cause some sort of bureaucratic nightmare by staying too long at the reefs.

1100 I hauled anchor and departed Ilot Loop, Chesterfield.

Noon 1200 UTC +11 hours
Pos: 19 54.34 S   158 26.11 E
COG: 250 deg M SOG: 4 knots
Wind 8 - 10 knots SE
Engine: 2454.6 hours
5 miles since departing Ilot Loop.
Superb sailing.

1700 Beer o clock
Libation and thoughts to missing family and friends.
This was superb sailing in 12 to 14 knot apparent wind from the south east.
Sadiqi’s speed over the ground (SOG) was 5 to 6 knots in a favourable current with jib, stay sail and full mainsail.
This is chasing sunsets sailing!

Sunday October 21 (Day 8)

It was another fantastic sail overnight in 8 to 10 knot apparent SE wind with a SOG of 4 to 5 knots.

At around 1000 the wind dropped below 5 knots from the East, boat speed below 2 knots. I started the engine.

I changed the time zone to UTC +10

Noon 1200 UTC +10 hours
Pos: 21 05.19 S   156 50.59 E
COG: 215 deg M SOG: 5 knots
Wind 8 - 10 knots SE
Engine: 2456.8 hours
114 miles since noon the previous day.
Happily sailing again in light airs on calm seas. Sails were trimmed nicely.
Yacht Tamariki was visible 5 miles to the north. 

Monday October 22 (Day 9)

Another pleasant overnight sail.
The conditions were very calm. A Boobie somehow managed to land on the top of the mast, destroying the wind indicator. Another Boobie landed on the solar panels and was shooed off. I remember “Crap a lot” showing a distinct lack of gratitude for a free ride 8 years ago.

Around sunrise the wind was down to 5 knots from the east, SOG 2.5 knots.
0730 I hauled up Big Bertha the asymmetrical spinnaker. Winds 5 – 7 knots ESE, SOG 3 knots. Sadiqi pushing against a half knot current.
1000 The wind was 5 knots from the east. I dropped the spinnaker and started the engine.

Noon 1200 UTC +10 hours
Pos: 22 08.86 S   155 36.82 E
COG: 218 deg M SOG: 3 knots
Wind 3 - 5 knots SSE
Engine: 2459.0 hours
93 miles since noon the previous day.
The engine hammered away in zero wind.

1700 Beer o clock.
The wind was back up to 10 knots (true) from the south east. Thankfully the engine was off and Sadiqi, sails hard on the wind, was slicing through the water at 4.5 knots. Still pushing against a current. The wind was forecast to be 10 to 12 knots for the next few days.

Chasing the sunset

Tuesday October 23 (Day 10)

Overnight the wind picked up to 15 knots from the NE. Then it didn’t. The sails slatted and banged in the rough seas and light airs.
The skipper was irascible in the sloppy seas and having to continually adjusting the windvane.

0900 Wind less than 5 knots from astern.
I pulled down all the sails to stop the noise.
I slept in the hope I’d find my sense of humour.

Noon 1200 UTC +10 hours
Pos: 23 11.19 S   154 35.87 E
COG: 250 deg M SOG: 0.5 knots
Wind less than 5 knots S
Engine: 2463.1 hours
84 miles since noon the previous day.
Sadiqi drifting, very little wind, all sails down, gnarly seas.
Destination: Port Bundaberg 150 miles.
The skipper; slept, read, or listened to music – loud.
The skipper had a brief swim being mindful of fish with big teeth and bad attitude.

Calm seas

1500 the wind picked up 10 to 12 knots from the SE
I hauled up the staysail  and partial mainsail.
SOG 3 knots COG 222 deg M.

1700 Beer o clock.
Pos: 23 16.71 S   154 30.34 E
COG: 222 deg M SOG: 3 knots
Wind 10 - 12 knots SE
Very nice quiet, gentle sailing.

Wednesday October 24 (Day 11)

An interesting night crossing a busy shipping lane. The AIS WatchMate performed admirably – there were no inci-dents. I run the engine to squeeze between two ships heading north – separation of about half a mile. There was a strong south setting current around the shipping lane.
At sunrise the wind was negligible.

Noon 1200 UTC +10 hours
Pos: 23 53.78 S   153 34.78 E
COG: 225 deg M SOG: 3.5 knots
Wind  5 to 8 knots S
Engine: 2465.0 hours
70 miles since noon the previous day.
Drifting in not much wind and calm seas.

Dolphin escort

1700 Beer o clock.
The skipper drank the last of the beer onboard.
An easy slow sail to make Port Bundaberg at a civilised hour the following morning.
Destination: Port Bundaberg 64 miles.

Thursday October 25 (Day 12)

It was another pleasant overnight sail. Being close to land the skipper set the alarm for 40 minute sleeping intervals. Many boats were converging on Bundaberg from New Caledonia and Vanuatu. I tried to maintain a speed of 4 knots to arrive at Bundaberg Port Marina around 1000.

0733 I radioed Marine Rescue Bundaberg on VHF to notify the authorities of Sadiqi’s arrival. 

Burnett Heads, Australia

0945 Dropped anchor near the Bundaberg Port Marina.
Engine: 2470.7 hours

I hauled anchor and motored Sadiqi to a marina berth for the Customs and Quarantine inspection.
The Aussie customs clearance was quick and painless. The officer was interested in how I found info on clearing into different countries around the world. I'm guessing that there were a fair few cruisers turning up here without having given the 96 hours advanced arrival notification or applied for a visa. I told him www.noonsite.com has the best and most up to date info on entry requirements .

 The quarantine clearance was not so painless or quick. The initial chat, parting with $260, confiscation of rubbish and fresh food was efficient. The quarantine officer did mention that Sadiqi was the smallest boat she had inspected this year. There was a rally of 60 or so boats arriving from Vanuatu and New Caledonia around the beginning of November.
The timber inspector arrived on the boat in the marina a week later. A rummage in all the boat lockers for an hour, filling in forms and parting with a further $200 eventually saw him depart satisfied that I had no bugs on the boat. Australia, is one of the more expensive countries - $460 plus marina fees - to visit by boat!

Vanuatu

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vanuatu

http://www.noonsite.com/Countries/Vanuatu

http://www.vanuatucruising.info

Port Vila, Vanuatu

 I left Port Vila on Tuesday, August 28 to sail south to Tanna island. An opportunity presented itself with a few days with winds from the north. The prevailing south easterly trade winds usually inhibit sailing into it. I keep being reminded that gentlemen do not sail to windward. It was a slow bumpy voyage in confused seas. I wanted to arrive in the north facing Port Resolution bay in daylight after the wind had swung coming from the south. It’s all in the timing. In the early morning, some 20 miles out, I could see the red glow of the volcano reflected on the clouds. Sadiqi arrived at Port Resolution on Tanna on Thursday morning. I joined several other cruisers for an evening tour of the volcano. The tour is a tad pricey at over USD $100. Still, It was an awesome experience gazing from the rim of the volcano into the caldera. The volcano gave out several impressive seismic belches, shooting large lumps of red hot lava high into the air. I think I had a brief glimpse into Hell, with all the fire and brimstone.

Volcanic sky show!

 

One night the upper level winds must have swung to the west. The boat was liberally coated with gritty volcanic ash in the morning.

The village of Port Resolution is quite primitive. The people are friendly and multi lingual. There were few cars in the village. There seemed to only be one fibreglass fishing boat with outboard engine in the bay. Fishermen on dugout outrigger canoes came out to the yachts to exchange fruit and vegetables for items like batteries and electrical wires. I left a soccer ball, pads, pencils and marbles to be distributed at the school. 

The Volcano Bar, White Beach near Port Resolution

Port Resolution anchorage

I waited for 15 knot  south easterly winds for the return trip to Vila. I knew I would be sailing against a half knot current in places. It was another bumpy sail at times in confused seas. Sadiqi did the 140 mile voyage in a little over 28 hours.
 
Cruise ships arrived at Port Vila on a daily basis. I felt the need to find somewhere quieter and less expensive. I motor sailed around to Esema Bay, Havana Harbour to the north west of Efate. Sadiqi had the pleasure of a playful dolphin escort in Havana Harbour.

Dolphin escort

As I approached Esema Bay I could see a large yacht laying on its side. It transpired that  “Blue Gold” the 130 foot schooner had been a victim of cyclone Pam in 2015. The anchorage at Esema bay was delightful with friendly locals. One morning I saw the water spout of a whale. A humpback whale and her calf basked in the shallow waters near by for several hours.
Some of the yachts that visited Esema Bay while Sadiqi was there:
Peter on Tamariki from New Zealand,
Art and Nancie on Second Wind from USA,
Martin and Angela on Katie M II from Canada.

Havana harbour

An out of season cyclone Luia put in a brief appearance in the Solomon Island in late September. Not long after that I headed back to Port Vila to prepare for chasing sunsets again. The fate of the large schooner Blue Gold being more than sufficient incentive for not wanting to be anywhere near any cyclone.

Up the mast checking Sadiqi's rigging

Fiji To Vanuatu

Good bye Fiji

Wednesday, August 16 at Port Denarau I did all the clearance requirements. I had hoped to leave before midday the same day. However, the officials only arrived after midday. I prepared Sadiqi for an early start the following morning - packing up the dinghy, awnings and stowing Roxy the anchor. I did not want to risk going through the pass in the reefs at mid afternoon when the winds where at their strongest. I’d done this twice before and it was not a pleasant experience.

Sadiqi departed the Port Denarau anchorage at 0700 and exited the Wilkes pass, near Namoto island, at 0940. We were flushed out doing 7 knots with the outgoing tide. Third time lucky – the exit through the pass was relatively easy.

Namotu Island

The first 24 hours of the passage were rough from the confused seas in the lee of the Fiji Islands. The wind was a fairly steady 18 to 22 knots east south east. It was brisk broad reach sailing with full main and headsail.

On Saturday night the  wind steadily decreased, by sunrise it was 10-12 knots ESE. It was very pleasant trade wind sailing. Big Bertha the asymmetrical spinnaker was hoisted. The seas were flat enough that Sadiqi ghosted along at a respectable 4 knots in less than 10 knot SE wind - blisFiji To Vanuatusful sailing. There was also a favourable current. In the evening the winds dropped below 10 knots. I ran the engine until just before midnight when the wind picked up to 10 knots. Not much but enough to maintain 4 knots speed over the ground.

On Sunday morning I hoisted Big Bertha again. The Wind was 8 to 10 knots ESE. Sadiqi ghosted along at nearly 4 knots.
The wind decreased during the afternoon. I attempted to keep what little wind there was on the beam. It was slow progress westward.
Slow pleasant sailing overnight with mainsail only. Winds 8 to 10 knots E, boat speed 2 knots.

Sailing into the sunset with Big Bertha.

On Monday the engine rattled away again to make progress in light winds, against a half knot current
Monday night proved challenging as a frontal system

was heading eastwards. I had seen this forecast system so prepared for it. A prodigious amount of rain fell before the front passed. Smithy the windvane slowly steered Sadiqi south as the winds shifted and increased from north, through west to the south. At around 0200 Tuesday I tacked to head back to Port Vila, Vanuatu.

I dropped anchor at the Port Vila, Vanuatu quarantine buoy and 0800 (UTC +11 hours). The customs and Biosecurity soon arrived by boat and cleared Sadiqi in. All vegetables and fresh food was confiscated by Biosecurity.

I contacted Yachting World marina on the availability of a mooring. There was none available. I was offered instead a berth in the marina. Sadiqi was soon tied stern to the wall by the friendly efficient Yachting World staff; Moses, Timmo and Willie. I can’t say I felt at all comfortable tied up alongside some large very expensive yachts. It was like being in a fish bowl with all the people walking past. Access to Sadiqi was walking a shaky plank - not ideal. I slept heavily not having had much sleep the night before nearing the coast and with the storm conditions. The following day several mooring became available and I was relieved to be moved onto one. 

Yachting World Berth. Sadiqi dwarfed by her neighbour.

Fiji 2018

After spending a week in Savusavu re-provisioning, refueling and catching up with friends it was time to explore. I sailed east overnight toward Viani Bay. The winds were forecast to strengthen so I chose instead to anchor in Nasasubo Bay. A more sheltered anchorage in south east winds. There I met members of the Rounds family who owned 700 acres growing mainly copra. They were extremely hospitable offering fruit, vegetables and fish. It was a very pleasant quiet bay surrounded by mangroves and hills.

Nasasubo Bay with fringing reef

Nasasubo Bay

The reef

Nasasubo Bay

A week later I returned to Savusavu in a brisk 20 to 25 knot south easterly wind. More and more yachts had arrived including the World ARC. I was not able to get a mooring at Copra Shed Marina so instead found a mooring with Waitui marina. When the winds settled down I sailed westwards toward the island of Viti Levu and it’s west coast. This is a minimum 4 day passage on Sadiqi navigating past the many reefs.  I managed to fly Big Bertha the asymmetrical spinnaker for several hours in the 8 to 12 knot winds. Sadiqi slipped along at 5 to 6 knots in flat waters.

Flying Big Bertha

Sunday July 15, I dropped anchor at peaceful Nananui-i-cake near Rakiraki on the north of Viti Levu, Fiji’s largest island.

Nananui-i-Cake anchorage

After several days enjoying the serenity I motor sailed, navigating around the many reefs, to Lautoka. I re-provisioned in Fiji’s second biggest city before motoring to Saweni Bay.

Saweni bay

Sunrise Saweni bay