Sunday, 4 January 2015

The Panama Canal experience


Wednesday, December 31, Salvador the Canal Authority (ACP) Admeasurer came to Shelter Bay to measure and check Sadiqi. A Panama Canal Ship Identification Number was issued.
The measurements:
Length Overall: 32.15 feet.
Extreme beam: 9.97 feet.

On January 1, I met Luc Overtoom, at Shelter Bay Marina, whom is sailing around the world with friends to raise funds for cancer research.


January 2, I took the free Marina bus into Colon. Tito's son Marcus picked me up from the Rey shopping centre and drove me to the CitiBank to pay the transit fees. I phoned the ACP later in the day to obtain the transit date.

Sadiqi's Panama canal transit date was set for Saturday January 3.

Sadiqi had spent four days in Shelter Bay Marina. I'd had an anxious time waiting for Tito and his crew to turn up on the day. Tito had told me that he would be coming on board as a line handler, as he was delivering a yacht from Balboa to Colombian Pacific side. This did not happen. He had also told me that I would get small Kuna line handlers for the transit. Two large adults and two youths; Joel, Tela, Carlo and Lewis stepped on board. Joel and Lewis were from Panama and Tela and Carlo were from Colombia. Only Joel spoke passable English.

1350 (UTC -5) Sadiqi departed from Shelter Bay marina.
Engine hours: 1491.2

Sadiqi in Shelter Bay marina
Sadiqi and crew proceeded to anchorage F (the Flats) to pick up the Advisor (Pilot) by 15.30. Sadiqi waited at anchor near Canadian yacht “Nirvana Now” for the Advisors to arrive. The Caribbean Christmas winds had started just before Christmas with winds to 20 knots from the North East. I was hoping that Murphy was having the weekend off elsewhere.
Nirvana Now at the Flats
The Line-handlers; Lewis, Joel, Carlo, Tela
Pilot Boat

1630 the ACP Advisor, Thomas stepped on board Sadiqi from the Pilot boat. Sadiqi and Nirvana proceeded to the Gatum Locks. Thomas the advisor spoke excellent English and assessed Sadiqi for the transit. He expressed concern about the cleats on Sadiqi. I had replaced the bolts attaching cleats and reinforced the deck area around the cleats when I was in South Africa. After conferring with the Advisor on board Nirvana he decided that Sadiqi would raft up or nest against Nirvana. The lines going to the sides of the lock chamber would be attached to Nirvana. Sadiqi only weighs 6 tonnes, whereas Nirvana would have been close to 12 tonnes being 42 foot in length. While Sadiqi was being nested up to Nirvana, just before entering the lock, I discovered that only one of the line handlers had any previous experience. I think Advisor Thomas had already assessed this. I had to say some loud words to one of the line handlers to use the aft cleat and not bend the lines around the push-pit rails.

New lock gates for canal expansion
Anxious skipper heading to Gatum locks
1730 local time (UTC -5) Sadiqi, along side (nested against) Nirvana, entered Gatum locks first chamber. We had followed a large container ship into the same chamber. The messenger lines, with monkey fist knots tied to the ends, were thrown first to Nirvana by two ACP staff from the side wall. Then from the other side of the lock messenger lines, with monkey fists, were thrown to the line handlers on board Sadiqi. These messenger lines were passed over to the line handlers on Nirvana. The thicker lines were tied to the messenger lines and the ACP staff hauled the lines up and looped them onto bollards. The lines are kept taught by the line handlers on Nirvana. The lock gates closed and the water rushed into the lock. The waters became very turbulent. Up-locking is far more turbulent than down-locking.

Rising 27 feet in Gatum lock
 

While tied along side I met Randy and Dawn and their crew on Nirvana. They had managed to find line handlers among cruisers at the marina. I was wishing I had. My confidence and patience in Tito's Services had been stretched very thin. Tito says and promises one thing and does another if at all. Only one line-handler on board Sadiqi had transited the canal before on a yacht! A lesson learned; Don't pay Tito for line handlers until safe arrival at the drop off point. The ACP Advisors were very professional and speak very good English.

Gatum locks has three chambers. The water level is raised 27 feet in each chamber.

Garum lock chamber 2
Sadiqi remained nested against Nirvana in the three chambers of the Gatum locks. When we moved to the next chamber the thicker lines were hauled back onto Nirvana. The messenger lines were held on Sadiqi and Nirvana and the ACP staff on the walls walked with the messenger lines to the next chamber and the process of restraining the yachts was repeated.

There are small, powerful locomotives that are used to pull and hold the bigger ships in place in the chambers.

The sun had set just prior to entering the third chamber.

Gatum lock chamber 3
1840 we entered Lake Gatum. We untethered ourselves from Nirvana and followed to some large moorings. We tied up a huge mooring around 1900.

The advisors were whisked away on a pilot boat shortly after tying up to the mooring. I was supposed to provide a hot meal for the advisor. I had prepared a bolagnaise sauce before hand for evening meal. I set about cooking pasta and warming the sauce offering the line-handlers a beer. Very shortly after serving it Lewis started barfing loudly over the side. It was almost seconds after serving the food. I assumed he was a little seasick from the water surging in into the chambers - it was a bit lively. Everyone else escaped to the bow to finish their dinner in peace. When Lewis had settled down some of the others asked for picante (hot spice) to add to the meal.

With an almost full moon Sadiqi was tied to a mooring in fresh water for the first time. This should piss off the barnacles, what's left of them. Lake Gatum is fresh water and provides all the water for the gravity fed canal locks. Every now and again Sadiqi would rock gently with the bow waves of the ships passing by on the lake. I did not sleep particularly well.

Before sun rise I erected the boom shade cover and made coffee for anyone that wanted it.

0715 start. Advisor Morris stepped on board from the pilot boat. I think Nirvana had the same Advisor as the previous day. Sadiqi followed Nirvana, doing 5.5 to 6 knots. Fortunately, Sadiqi was to nest up against Nirvana again going through the locks.

An early start on lake Gatum
The next lock is Pedro Miguel lock 28 miles motoring from Gatum locks. Sadiqi's Volvo engine had not been pushed so hard for so long - doing 2500 revs, 5.8 knots for over 4 hours. Nirvana has a 75 horse power engine as opposed to Sadiqi's 18 horse power engine. When I prepared the paper work with the Admeasure I had specified that Sadiqi could maintain 5 knots, the minimum required speed for a canal transit.


I chatted with Morris who informed me of the history of the Canal. His real job was as a tug boat skipper. He does ACP Advisor yacht transits on his days off. I hand steered Sadiqi, Ken the Autopilot was not up for the task, because of the strong propeller torque when motoring at nearly 6 knots. At around 1030 we passed under the Centennial Bridge – marking 100 years since the canal first opened. The canal was opened in 1914. The first ship to transit was the Ancon. 
Centennial Bridge
1045 Arrived at Pedro Miguel lock. There was a hold up in the north bound traffic, our transit of the Pedro Miguel lock was delayed an hour. We tied up to a mooring and waited.

A humbling experience. For lunch on Sunday I had planned on using the remaining bolognaise sauce, with picante added in tortillas. I heated the tortillas on a tray on the hot engine and warmed the meat sauce on the stove. The tortillas went down well. In fact Carlo, said it was a little too spicy. Lewis had just bread and margarine. He then showed me the bullet wounds to his stomach and his colostomy bag. Lewis, from Colon must have been in his early 20s, had been shot several times. I'm not sure how effective he would have been as a line-handler. I think this explained why he threw up the night before. This showed Tito's humanitarian character, as he helps youth or as he calls it; his children.

Advisor Morris and Skipper
We waited at Pedro Miguel for the north going ships to go through. It was about 8 miles to La Playita in the Pacific Ocean.

1238 Nirvana pulled Sadiqi into Pedro Miguel lock chamber. Pedro Miguel is a single chamber lock, only a short distance from from the last lock before the Pacific – Miraflores locks.

Randy and Dawn on Nirvana Now
Again the monkey fists flew with the messenger lines to pick up the thicker hand lines on Nirvana. The down-locking was significantly smoother than the up-locking. Nirvana and Sadiqi remained tethered for the short motor to Mirafloris locks.


1313 entered the Mirafloris locks. Mirafloris is a 2 chamber lock. Nearly in the pacific.
One lock to go.

Mirafloris locks
We untethered from Nirvana and proceeded to Balboa Yacht Club moorings, passing under the huge Bridge of the Americas.

Bridge of the Americas
1430 arrived at Balboa Yacht Club mooring.

It was an absolutely awesome experience transiting the canal on Sadiqi. However, I was very relieved to safely drop the lines, fenders and line-handlers at Balboa Yacht Club. We picked up a mooring while the yacht club taxi boat was loaded up. I released the mooring and motored to La Playita two and a half miles further on. I'm very grateful that Sadiqi was able to nest against “Nirvana Now” in the locks.

With the full moon and spring tides the tidal range on the Pacific side is five metres as opposed the the Atlantic side of almost half a metre.

1510 dropped anchor at La Playita anchorage.
Engine hours: 1503.5.

The total engine hours from Shelter Bay Marina to La Playita anchorage was a little over 12 hours.

Panama City skyline
Panama Canal Transit Tolls and charges.
Length Overall
(in feet)
Transit Toll etc.
Buffer (Bond)
Total Deposit
Required
up to 50
$934.00
$891.00
$1875.00
50 < length ≤80
$1484.00
$891.00
$2375.00

Shelter marina charges:
One dollar per foot per day for vessels between 20 and 40 feet plus 7% tax.
Total for 4 days $128.40

Tito's Service charges:
Service $100.00
Lines x 4 $80.00
Fenders (Tires) x 8 $24.00
Visa and Zarpe $100.00
Line-handlers x 4 $300.00
Total $604.00

Bank transfer Bond refund charges $35.00

Diesel fuel – approximately 15 litres around $20.00

Total cost of Panama Canal transit excluding food and drink $1721.40