The Maldives (not another bloody palm tree). It would be difficult to imagine that this tropical paradise could have political unrest. Back in February the locals revolted, police stations and court houses were torched and the president had to abscond. By the time Sadiqi arrived things had settled somewhat. Apparently, due to the unrest and also an increase in the tourist tax to US$350.00 the tourist occupancy on resorts was down.
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| Addu fiery sunset |
1 Australian Dollar (AUD) = 16 Maldives Rufiyaa (MVR)
If a yacht stays in the Maldives for longer than 3 days then an agent is required to be appointed. There are only two agents in Addu, Gan and are not as rapacious as the agents in Mali, the capital. If you stay longer than a week then you are required to pay US$350.00 tourist tax valid for 3 months. To stay in Gan for one month the taxes, fees and charges came close to $600.00. This did not include the fee to cruise other Atolls. Most private resorts on the atolls do not allow yachts to anchor in their vicinity or will charge an exorbitant fee. Apparently, yachts spoil the view. The cruising guides advise that anchoring is generally deep up to 50 metres in places.
The island of Gan was clean, tidy, lawns mowed, hedges trimmed. The clean up may have been the result of a recent regional summit on the Atoll. However, it was a refreshing change after Sri Lanka. There are causeways built between some of the islands making for the longest paved road in the Maldives of 14 kilometres.
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| Sadiqi twilight |
As you can imagine the pace is frenetic on Addu Atoll. Sadiqi was anchored in 30 metres off the beach of the near by Equator Village Resort, a former RAF offices quarters. The guests at the resort, predominantly Russian, seem to spend an inordinate amount of time, standing with hands on hips deliberating over the white sun loungers near the beach. Odd behaviour I thought.
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| Equator Village Resort beach |
The Maldivian locals appear toward sunset having avoided the heat of the day in the shade somewhere. Between the Muezzin calling the faithful to prayer and the aspiring politicians spruiking for votes for the upcoming elections it is quite noisy in the evenings.
Shortly after arriving in Gan I received a call from the agent Mutty, notifying me that there had been an earthquake off Sumatra and that I should check on the internet. There were tsunami alerts in several countries around the Indian Ocean. While watching the situation unfold on the internet I had brief browse to the impact of the 2004 tsunami on the Maldives - 47 people were killed. Fortunately this earthquake did not generate a tsunami. Had there been a risk I would have pulled up the anchor and headed out to sea. The yachts at Chagos apparently did evacuate the atoll as they did not have internet access and the same information that I had. Better to be safe.
Several other yachts arrived after Sadiqi. One of these was "Beluga Free" from Hong Kong with Mike and crew Jericho and Mark on board.
I had hoped to visit Chagos however the petty pommy bureaucrats rejected my application. My rant about that is mentioned under heading Petty bureaucrats and negative thoughts.
Cyclones in the northern Indian Ocean – May to December
Cyclones in the southern Indian Ocean – October to April
I had a month to kill waiting for better weather for the ongoing journey. Other than the fact one can't buy beer here I could think of worse places to fix the boat in this exotic location.
