Cocos (Keeling) Islands comprise of 27 coral islands forming two atolls in the Indian Ocean, situated 2768km NW of Perth and 3685km due West of Darwin. Direction Island (DI) is the only safe yacht anchorage (Port Refuge) on the Atoll. 
Only two of Cocos (Keeling) Islands are populated:
HOME ISLAND – 1.7nms south of the Direction Island– population approximately 600 Cocos Malays of Muslim religion.
WEST ISLAND – 4.5nms west of the anchorage is the administrative centre for the Islands and has a population of about 120 westerners, with a pub and trappings of the, so called civilised, western world. Cocos is duty free so the alcohol is relatively cheap - about the only thing that is.
I'd have to say that Cocos (Keeling) Islands are bit of an anachronism. Also, it is very expensive - provisions are flown in once a week. Petrol costs AU$2.20 per litre Internet access AU$10/hour.
While anchored at Direction Island:
Dried out the boat from water leaking through the deck and from water entering the boat from the knockdown.- Visited Home Island to pay Anchoring fees AU$10/day or AU$50.00 per week. These fees had only just been introduced on July 1.
- Did the laundry using freshwater from the rain water tanks on the island.
- Wandered around Direction Island. Spoke to the locals.
- Swam "The Rip" – a narrow channel on the south end of Direction island full of amazing tropical fish. ( Nemo and Dory were there too) It was like swimming in an aquarium. Metre long sharks too.
- Put a board with Sadiqi’s name on it on a palm tree along with hundreds of other names of yachts that have visited Cocos (Keeling) Islands. ( Symbolic thing)
- Removed the none functioning electric windlass that let water into the main cabin.
- Visited Home and West Islands.
Friday a French yacht "Oaristys" (60 foot steel ketch) sailed in with three young blokes on board who had bought the boat in Hong Kong and were sailing it back to France via South Africa. I lost count of the number of times they attempted to anchor using a large danforth. The holding ground is good at Direction Island, the yacht is large and the wind was blowing around 20 knots. I was grateful my (Swarbrick) Fisherman’s/Admiralty anchor held fast. Not having an electric anchor windless to pull the 15Kg anchor up plus chain makes the job a little tiresome.
Sunday another two yachts arrived. "Papy Jovial" (Morgan 41) USA registered. "Saladin" - 120 foot super yacht being sailed to the Seychelles for the arrival of the owner. Tough life.
Direction Island A kilometre long and less than 100 metres wide in the shape of a crescent, inhabited by: Hermit crabs, sand flies, 6 wild chickens and Coconut palms. A very real danger is being hit by falling coconuts!
Constructions on Direction Island consist of: Composting toilets (long drops), several sun/rain shelters, BBQ, rainwater tank and telephone.
Directions Island used to be a telegraph station and saw its fair share of action in both world wars.
Seaward side rocky beaches littered with flotsam mostly shoes (thongs/sandals) - footwear! Beachcombers delight - try and find a matching pair.
The locals and tourists do day trips to Direction Island arriving by ferry or small boat. I had Direction Island to myself most of the time. It rained a lot while I was there. Great for showering and washing - trick is not to be lathered up when the rain stops.
Customs and Immigration clearance. On arrival at Cocos the Australian Federal Police AFP come out by boat to check paper work. Have to pay anchorage fees travel 1.7 miles by dingy to Home Island Shire Offices. This can be a wet and bumpy ride depending on the weather. On departure one has to travel 1.7 miles to Home Island to get the half hour Ferry trip to West Island and go to the Police station to get clearance papers. You then have a maximum 48 hours to depart Cocos Islands. On clearing out of Cocos (Keeling) Islands I was told the area had already received its total annual rainfall of nearly 2 metres, and it was only July.
The place itself is spectacularly beautiful, I’d have to say the people and the rules and regs were very quirky. I got the feeling that “Yachties” were not that welcome by the, so called, “locals”. I am glad I went there, however there are easier ways to get there.
