The Kingdom of Tonga

http://www.noonsite.com/Countries/Tonga

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tonga

Currency 2.00 Tonga Pa'ang (TOP) = US$1.00

The Kingdom of Tonga are the first islands to see the dawn of each new day. Each morning I wake up with the sound of angles singing. The church near by has choir practice at 6 o clock in the mornings. Tonga is a nice laid back kind a place – the people are refreshingly friendly and humble after French Polynesia. The general impression of happiness being inversely proportional to wealth was very evident. The people are not wealthy but they can afford to smile. The archipelago was very aptly named the Friendly Islands by Captain James Cook in 1773. 

Tonga, Neiafu anchorage

Anchored just off Neiafu town, in the evenings I often heard to the dolcet strains of Jimmy Buffett from the bars and restaurants. Friday nights was jam session at the Aquarium restaurant – cruisers get together to play music, socialise and sing.

Cruisers that I met up with in Neiafu, Tonga:

“Fair Winds” with Sherman and Judy from USA and Australia.

“Fagel Blu” with Olli from Finland.

“Korbut Rose” with Bruce and Sandy from Seattle, USA.

“Angela” with Philip and Barbara from Tasmania.

“Kiwi Dancer” with Grant from New Zealand.

“Seacher” with Paul from New Zealand.

“Jenny” with Alan from UK.

“Georgia” with Paul and Chris from Seattle, USA.

11-09-15 Friday

I decided to explore some of the many anchorages in the Vava'U group of Tonga. Many of the anchorages are numbered and well documented. There is a fairly large charter boat fleet operating out of Neiafu – Sunsail and Moorings. I motor sailed to Anchorage number 11 near Tapana island. There was a Spanish Paella restaurant near there that had been recommended to me. At $50 USD a head I abstained. The skipper was having to exercise some monetary restraint due to the falling Aussie dollar and Aussie share prices. I met up with Judy and Sherman on “Fair Winds”. We had dinner on Fair Winds as their fridge had packed in. I met Paul and Chris on “Georgia”. The following day we decided to head to Euakafa Island or anchorage 32. In the mid afternoon Judy spotted the blow of a whale. There was a boat near by and people in the water swimming with the whales. In the evening we enjoyed a BBQ onshore with Brett, an Aussie and his dogs, who has found paradise and lives on the island. Brett is a yachtie friendly guy who welcomes cruisers. Look for his blue house on the north side of the island. Beware of the not so cruiser friendly resort to the west with a pack of nasty dogs.

View from Euakafa Island or anchorage 32

Sunday, being away from the many churches on the islands I did not wake to the sound of choral angels singing but whale song. At first I wondered what the sound was then remembered the whales the previous day. I could not see them but could hear and feel their song through Sadiqi's hull. 

Monday I headed a little further west to Vaka'Eitu Island (anchorage 16).

While the anchorages are all well marked the anchoring is not simple. If one can find a sandy spot, clear of the many coral heads, the sand is thin over rock. Hearing the anchor chain grind over rock and coral is fairly normal – not the most pleasant of sounds.

The wind was due to pick up with the passing over Vava'U of the South Pacific Convergence Zone (SPCZ). Georgia and Sadiqi headed to Port Maurelle (anchorage 7). This is a very pleasant anchorage and understandably gets a little crowded at times. Also, it is safe in strong winds from the east.

Paul and Chris on Georgia invited me to join them snorkelling in the the Swallows Cave – what an experience. There were several vast schools of fish swimming in the shelter of the cool cave. The entire school would swirl – synchronised - as swimmers neared them. Paul had an underwater camera.

Swallows Cave - swirling schools of fish

I broke out the Cobb BBQ to cook pizza on Georgia. I had not used the BBQ since being in the San Blas before Christmas. It was a pleasant evening despite a few rain showers passing every now and again.

On the Sunday we returned to Neiafu. The beer and wine stocks onboard were severely depleted. For some reason I only had one can of beer left in the fridge – bad organisation.

 

I was chatting with cruisers Paul & Chris on yacht "Georgia" in Tonga. We were talking about the Panama canal transit. I mentioned the boats' name that I was tied up to "Nirvana Now" for the canal transit. They said, "you know that a yacht with that name sunk after leaving Galapagos back in April". I had heard of a yacht sinking but did not know its name.

I looked on the net and it was the same boat, same people. Around that time I was suffering my stupidity with my attempted Ecuador escapades.

If you have some time have a look at the link below.

www.ybw.com/news-from-yachting-boating-world/couple-rescued-shortly-before-yacht-sinks-in-south-pacific-10938

I count my lucky stars and hope that my luck continues to hold out.

A few days ago I heard on the local VHF radio net that a solo sailor was rescued just north of Tonga - the boat “Liberty Call” was lost.

Apparently the solo sailor had left Bora Bora. The seas were rough near Tonga and he became seasick. He took some medicine and unfortunately fell asleep – the boat ran into one of the islands of the Vava'u group. A whale watching boat spotted him and picked him up off the rocks near where the boat sank.

 

Watching the weather. We have not seen much sun for well over a week here in the Vava'u group of Tonga, with the South Pacific Convergence Zone hanging about. I was looking for some nice, 15 to 25 knot, south easterly winds to sail further west. The hovering SPCZ was making passage planning difficult.

The beginning of October was looking good for a departure from Vava'u, Tonga.

My liver was given a reprieve when I started treatment for an amoebic parasite that I think I picked up drinking the water in Fatu Hiva. General fatigue and lethargy being the least offensive of the symptoms. The treatment - flagyl is one of the few antibiotics to that can cause issues with alcohol.

02-10-15 Friday I made ready to clear out of Tonga. I had to take the boat around to the fisherman's wharf so the officials could come on board.

1030 Sadiqi departed the fisherman's wharf and headed to Port Maurelle (anchorage 7). I had 24 hours in which to leave Tonga.

At Port Maurelle I met up with Harry, Leanne and the girls on “Ulysses Blue”.

French Polynesia to Tonga

13-08-15 Thursday

1600 Depart Bora Bora, French Polynesia

Engine 1691.3 hours

Winds were light from the west as Sadiqi exited the pass. The seas were rough and confused once out in the ocean. Sadiqi motored for a fair while through the rough chop into the wind.

1830 Wind swung to the south at up to 30 knots as forecast.

Sailing with the equivalent of two reefs in the main and yankee jib.

14-15 Friday (Day 1)

In the morning the sky was grey overcast – in the South Pacific Convergence Zone (SPCZ) again.

Wind 15 to 17 knots southerly.

COG: 230 deg. M, SOG: 5.5 knots

Noon 1200 UTC -10 hours

Wind 18 – 20 knots (T) South

Lat: 16 51.79 S, Lon: 153 30.49 W

COG: 250 deg M, SOG: 6 knots

Engine: 1694.8 hours

102 miles since leaving Bora Bora.

Nice sailing all be it rough on occasion.

1700 Beer o clock passed south of atoll Maupihaa.

Wind 12 to 18 knots SSE

COG: 270 deg. M, SOG: 4.5 knots

15-08-15 Saturday (Day 2)

Grey overcast skies again in the morning.

Noon 1200 UTC -10 hours

Wind 18 – 20 knots (T) ESE

Lat: 16 40.89 S, Lon: 155 36.75 W

COG: 270 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots

Engine: 1695.5 hours

122 miles since noon previous day.

Rolling along nicely under clearing skies with the occasional bump from swell rolling up from the south.

Mid afternoon the wind was swinging more to the east as forecast. I poled out the jib

1700 Beer o clock

Wind 14 to 16 knots (T) East.

COG: 275 deg M, SOG: 5 knots.

16-08-15 Sunday (Day 3)

Morning – a pleasant sail overnight. I managed to get some good sleep. It takes awhile to get into the half hour sleep routine. Sadiqi was off the rhumb lines between islands that cruisers use, for example to the southern Cook Islands.

Noon 1200 UTC -10 hours

Wind 16 – 20 knots (T) E

Lat: 16 00.46 S, Lon: 157 40.78 W

COG: 260 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots

Engine: 1695.5 hours

125 miles since noon previous day.

1700 Beer o clock UTC -10

Changed time zone to UTC -11

1700 Beer o clock UTC -11

Wind 16 – 18 knots (T) E

Poled out jib with single reef in main.

COG: 258 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots

Pleasant sailing into the sunset.

Fiery sunsets

17-08-15 Monday (Day 4)

Morning – grey skies with curtains of rain and patches of blue.

Winds swinging more to the south - decreasing.

The wind was forecast to swing more to the south over the next few days. I unfurled the mainsail and removed the pole holding the jib to port. Sadiqi with full main and yankee jib in 15 knots of breeze on the beam was romping along at a respectable 6 knots.

COG: 250 deg M, SOG: 6 knots.

Noon 1200 UTC -11 hours

Wind 12 – 15 knots (T) ESE

Lat: 15 52.62 S, Lon: 159 55.05 W

COG: 245 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots

Engine: 1695.8 hours

130 miles since noon previous day. (25 hours)

1700 Beer o clock.

A very pleasant days sail. The seas were less confused and not as rough.

The fish were not very obliging. The cook prepared an Indian beef curry and rice instead.

18-08-15 Tuesday (Day 5)

0345 I awoke to the sound of sails flapping and banging. Sadiqi was rolling around in short sloppy seas. The wind dropped and swung further to the south. I trimmed the sails and reset Smithy the WindPilot.

Morning

Sunrise was bright and harsh. Sadiqi seemed to be in a large blue hole with grey clouds all around on the horizon. I could hear the rudder post thumping in the worn bushes. Another item to be added to the ever increasing work list for Sadiqi.

Wind 8 to 10 knots (T) SE

COG: 244 deg M, SOG: 2 knots

0830 Wind 8 to 10 knots (T) SE

COG: 244 deg M, SOG: 2 knots

I hauled up Big Bertha - the asymmetrical spinnaker. This would be the first time in many months, since shortly after leaving Panama.

COG: 244 deg M, SOG: 4 knots

0930 Dropped Big Bertha. Winds gusting to 14 knots.

Smithy the WindPilot was not coping with the change in apparent wind angle with the wind gusts.

I did not want to hand steer.

Noon 1200 UTC -11 hours

Wind 15 – 17 knots (T) SE

Lat: 16 12.60 S, Lon: 161 44.14 W

COG: 250 deg M, SOG: 5 knots

Engine: 1695.8 hours

107 miles since noon previous day.

Nice sailing after a slow morning.

The winds steadily increased in the afternoon with dark foreboding clouds.

I reduced the mainsail.

1700 Beer o clock

Winds 20 to 25 knots SE. 30 knots in the rain squalls.

The seas became more sloppy and rough. Green water was regularly washing over the deck and cockpit.

19-08-15 Wednesday (Day 6)

The wind were strong throughout the night until early morning when it began to moderate.

Around 0400 I unfurled some mainsail to help stabilise Sadiqi in the sloppy seas.

The sun rose bright and clear with patches of cloud in the distance.

I felt a little less grumpy, probably from lack of sleep, after a cup of coffee. 
 

Noon 1200 UTC -11 hours

Wind 15 – 17 knots (T) SE

Lat: 16 37.88 S, Lon: 163 43.92 W

COG: 245 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots

Engine: 1696.4 hours

118 miles since noon previous day.

1700 Beer o clock

Wind 16 – 18 knots SE

COG: 245 deg M, SOG: 5 knots

20-08-15 Thursday (Day 7)

It was a good sail overnight.

Temperatures were getting cooler. On sunrise the temperature in the cabin was 22 deg C.

The water temperature was 25.5 deg C.

Saw the plume of several whales blowing, looking like puffs of smoke on the horizon.

1130 Wind 8 – 10 knots ESE

Decided to haul up Big Bertha again.

Noon 1200 UTC -11 hours

Wind 8 – 12 knots (T) E

Lat: 16 58.71 S, Lon: 165 38.52 W

COG: 245 deg M, SOG: 4.5 knots

Engine: 1696.4 hours

112 miles since noon previous day.

1600 Wind 12 – 16 knots (T) ESE

Dropped Big Bertha.

Apparent wind speed started to nudge 12 knots – SOG 7 knots.

Had to hand steer and use Ken the autopilot – did an admiral job.

21-08-15 Friday (Day 8)

It was a good sail overnight.

Noon 1200 UTC -11 hours

Wind 14 – 16 knots (T) ESE

Lat: 17 24.46 S, Lon: 167 43.72 W

COG: 246 deg M, SOG: 5 knots

Engine: 1696.8 hours

122 miles since noon previous day.

1500 Winds up to 22 knots SE.

2 reefs in the mainsail and full yankee.

1700 Beer o clock

Winds 18 to 22knots (T) SE

Bouncing along at 5 to 6 knots.

22-08-15 Saturday (Day 9)

Fast sailing overnight in rough seas.

Winds 18 to 20 knots (T) SE. Swell around 3.5 metres.

Noon 1200 UTC -11 hours

Wind 18 – 20 knots (T) ESE

Lat: 18 03.74 S, Lon: 169 54.61 W

COG: 250 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots

Engine: 1696.8 hours

131 miles since noon previous day.

Passing 55 miles north of Niue.

Broad reaching in lousy cross seas, uncomfortable motion.

Just before beer o clock I poled out the yankee jib.

The wind was forecast to ratchet up a few knots and swing further to the east over night.

The motion on the boat was a little more comfortable. The safest place to be was still horizontal in the sea berth.

1700 Beer o clock.

Wind 20 to 22 knots ESE

COG: 270 deg M, SOG: 5.5 knots.

23-08-15 Sunday (Day 10 and 11)

A rolly sail overnight with single reefed main and poled out jib.

Noon 1200 UTC -11 hours

Wind 16 – 20 knots (T) ENE

Lat: 17 59.63 S, Lon: 172 09.33 W

COG: 245 deg M, SOG: 5 knots

Engine: 1696.8 hours

128 miles since noon previous day.

Rolling along 110 miles from Tonga, Vava'U

Sadiqi leaped into tomorrow.

23-08-15, 1557 Sunday – Crossed the Date Line

Lat: 18 05.40 S, Lon: 172 30.00 W

Changed time zone to UTC +13

24-08-15, 1557 Monday

(One way to miss most of a Monday)

1745 Wind 10 to 14 knots NE.

I had seen on the GRIB file forecast, that I downloaded via the HF radio, the wind was going to swing round to the north, then to the west.

I gybed the main onto Starboard and poled out the jib again.

25-08-15 Tuesday (Day 12)

0245 Wind was less than 10 knots from the north.

The wind had been good up to this point and Sadiqi had made good speeds between 4 to 5 knots. When the wind dropped the sails began banging.

I started the engine.

The wind continued to swing through the west toward the south. The Tonga island was shrouded in rain clouds. Sadiqi and skipper had a much needed rain water wash at times. By the time Sadiqi was on, what should have been, the leeward side(west coast) of Vava'U she was beating into a 20 knot south westerly. I kept the engine ticking over to try and make some headway and to arrive before dark. I had to make several tacks to windward before heading toward the very sheltered anchorage near Neiafu.

1530 Arrived Neiafu, Tonga

Engine 1710.1 hours

Sadiqi was tied to the fisherman's wharf when; Customs, Immigration, Health and Quarantine officials came onboard to clear in. The officials were very friendly and helpful. Olli from “Fagel Blu” came over to the wharf to welcome me to Tonga. The previous day 19 cruising boats had cleared in to Tonga.

Olli and I had parted company in February after leaving Panama. We had some catching up to do and a few stories to tell over a few beers. In the evening we went ashore and had a very good reasonably priced steak at Mango's restaurant. I met up with Sherman and Judy on “Fair Winds” who had arrived the day before.