Phuket to Langkawi

Departed Ao Chalong Thursday 15 September. 6.30am. Good winds to start with up to 20knots with the boat slicing through the water at just over 6 knots – good sailing. The winds lasted until midday, then didn’t.

We arrived at Ko Rok Nok at 18.15 – 55 mile motor sail. I watched a spectacular sunset as I picked up a mooring. I gave the mooring  a good tug with the engine to see if it would hold. The water is crystal clear on these islands as there is no cultivation and very little habitation.

Moored off Ko Rawi. Ko Adang in the background

The following day it was a long motor sail, 45 miles, to the Butangs (Adang, Rawi, Butang and Lipe). The Volvo behaved well. I anchored toward the western end of the Butang group of islands to get protection from the wind and waves. I decided not to take mooring as the location was too close to the channel where there was a strong current. I did some snorkelling in the clear water and cleaned some of the barnacles off the bottom of the boat. It was good to actually see the bottom of the boat to clean it as opposed to bumping into things in murky water around Phuket and Langkawi.

I headed to the eastern end of Ko Rawi to get water. I picked up a mooring. I snorkelled the reef and was impressed with the coral and fish life. The season has not started in the Butangs yet so there were very few people about other than the local Cow Ley (Sea Gypsies) . After spending not a very pleasant night with the mooring bumping into the hull and rolling around in the current and swell I decided to head to Ko Tarutao. The weather was overcast and foreboding. The winds picked up 20 knots and we had a great sail on a beam reach to Tarutao doing 5 to 6 knots.

Thai fishing boats off Ko Tarutao

There were several fishing boats in the area where I anchored. Toward sunset more fishing boats arrived. I could only assume that this was a safe anchorage and the fishing boats sort shelter. I spent tow nights at Tarutoa doing chores, baking bread, reading etc.

I arrived back in Langkawi, Telaga on Wednesday September 22 just on the equinox.

Thailand Phuket

In Chalong I sadly said good bye to Nelson and Claude on “Black Swan” It was almost a year since we met up in Sebang, Sumatra. They are heading south for Danga Bay, then Borneo and the Philippines.

The Chalong anchorage was so rough the night Black Swan left with the southerly swell I decided to head for more sheltered waters. I had installed the water pump drive sprocket and the engine was working well. I headed north to Yacht Haven near the bridge that links Phuket to the mainland. Yacht Haven is a little out of the way and does not offer a great deal – a pleasant change from Chalong. Yacht Haven seems to be one of the places where toys belonging to the people with money hangout – there is some very expensive boats here. The small village near by must be predominantly Moslem with the pleasant call to prayer five times a day. It was also the end of Ramadan while here.

The anchorage is very pleasant, calm and for $18.00 a month you get to use the showers and some of the facilities of the Yacht Haven marina. I met up with Canadian George on “Thalia” a handy guy to know when it comes to Electrical, Mechanical and refrigeration. He very kindly offered to help me reduce the power consumption on my fridge. This meant evacuation the R134a refrigerant, renewing the gas, then monitoring the temperature, AMP draw and suction pressure. This was a time consuming task. However, I think I have managed to save half an Amp and I still have cold beers. I think I also have the satisfaction that I have a very low carbon footprint.

Before heading back to Chalong to check out of Thailand I decided to visit some of the islands of Phang Nga Bay North East of Phuket. I knew that Sue, Graham and Squeak the cat on “Chandrika”, the rock climbing fanatics, were in the area. I anchored near them on the east side of Ko Khlui. The following day we explored the island looking for ”Hongs”. Some of the strange sentinel like islands have large vertical holes – like a volcano crater. The film “The Beach” featured one on Railey Island not to far from where we were anchored. I learned how to gather small clams from the beach and in the mud near mangroves.

We clambered through a cave and down makeshift bamboo ladders to get into the hong on Ko Khlui . The hong would have been at least 50 metres wide at it widest part. It was stifling hot as there was no or very little wind. We entered the hong at low tide to be able to walk around, otherwise it is filled with water. 

The next day we hauled anchor and headed to Ko Batang anchored and did an exploratory lap of the island in the dingy. Sue and Graham were looking at the steep rock faces for evidence of bolts where other climbers had been. The old stainless steel bolts were corroded and rusty. Sue explained that all new bolts for climbing were made of Titanium and glued into the limestone rock. The heat and sea air reeks havoc on stainless steel. The unique vertical formations are unique to this part of the world and are formed from ancient coral reefs that were submerged then pushed up when the tectonic plates of Asia and India collided.

Hong entrance

The following day Sue, Graham and I headed for Ko Boi in the dingy. Their outboard motor was playing up so we used mine. Sue and Graham had their climbing gear and we clambered up to a known climbing wall with all Titanium rings. I then watched as Sue belayed while Graham clambered up the overhanging cliff like a gecko. I stayed firmly on the ground. Graham belayed while Sue went up and retrieved the carabinas that Graham had hooked on the rings. It was fascinating watching each of them climb. They have been climbing for over 10 years. Sailing is a by product as a means to get to climbing areas in different places around the world. I had to admire their skill, dexterity and concentration as they climbed. After a lunch of chilli tuna and pilchards on crackers we went exploring for the hong on the island then searched for clams. 

Ko Boi Hong

After a very pleasant few days it was time to return to Chalong, get provisions and check out of Thailand.